THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 284

by if you've a free couple of hours and your own transport. South of the town, the waterfall
of Cañon Macho de Monte is a spectacular sight in season.
The Lagunas de Volcán and around
The Lagunas de Volcán (1300m) are Panama's highest wetlands and an important sojourn
for migrating birds, and will appeal to birders, who will be keen to spot northern jacanas,
masked ducks and, in the forested fringes, the rare rose-throated becard. The casual visitor
is more likely to bemoan the lack of decent paths around these two shallow lakes. To the
northeast of the lakes, a visit to the coffee estate of Finca La Torcaza (

771 4087, estate-

cafe.com ) is likely to be of more general appeal and can be explored on horseback.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LAS LAGUNAS DE VOLCÁN
By taxi A taxi to the lakes will cost $5, or $8 for the return, plus wait time.
By car If you're driving, turn left off Av Central, by the sign to El Oasis Place, bearing right
at the mini-super and following the tarred road until you hit the disused airstrip; continue
across and keep on the rutted or muddy track for another 4km (4WD needed in the wet sea-
son and high-clearance vehicle at other times).
Sitio Barriles
5km west of Volcán • Daily 7am-4pm • Guided tours in English or Spanish $5 •

771 4281 or 6575 1828 •

A taxi ride to the site will cost $5
The private finca of the Landau family harbours one of Panama's most important arche-
ological sites, Sitio Barriles , named after the barrel-shaped stones unearthed in 1947 that
provided the first modern-day evidence of what is presumed to be the country's oldest pre-
Columbian culture, which was prominent around 500 AD. The most interesting artefacts have
been carted away to Panama City's anthropology museum. Nevertheless, the farm possesses
a couple of petroglyphs with the pièce de résistance a silky smooth slab of basalt, which
when doused with water reveals yet more squiggles. There's also an unconvincing recreation
of an archeological dig chamber and a small display of ceramics.
Cañon Macho de Monte
A worthwhile detour for those with their own transport, east of the Concepcíon-Volcán road,
is Cañon Macho de Monte , a dramatic waterfall (less so in the dry season) that tumbles into
a gorge. It's also a good birdwatching site, where orange-collared manakins and fiery-billed
aracaris top the billing.
ARRIVAL AND EATING: CAÑON MACHO DE MONTE
By car From Volcán travel 13km south, turning left at the mini-super in the hamlet of Cuesta
de Piedra; continue 2.5km, crossing two bridges, until you come to the hydroelectric project.
Park up on the left; across the road, a path leads to the precipice above the fall.