THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 274

WHITEWATER RAFTING FROM BOQUETE
Hugging the coast of Costa Rica, the tumbling waters of the 128km-long Chiriquí Viejo
constituted one of the world's great whitewater rafting rivers until a controversial dam
was completed a few years ago. That said, the river is still a top-class route to raft, provid-
ing an exhilarating descent with category II to IV rapids carving their way through stunning
scenery. There are, however, other equally picturesque and enjoyable rivers to paddle with-
in closer striking distance of Boquete, such as the Chiriquí , Dolega , Gariché and Majag-
ua , with category II and III rapids. The rafting season predictably dovetails with the rains,
generally June to November though the Chiriquí Viejo is navigable year-round, provided
there isn't too much rain.
Although the rafting outfits are all located in Boquete, the entry point for the Chiriquí
Viejo is a good two hours'-plus drive away (whatever the tour operators may claim) by the
time you've picked up all passengers and crawled up the spectacularly sinuous road to the
drop-off point. It's therefore actually better to arrange a pick-up from lodgings in David ,
or, if you're staying in Volcán, on the Interamericana at the turn-off in Concepción, which
the tour operators regularly do, thus saving yourself a couple of hours' travel time. The
descent ends at the Intermericana bridge close to Paso Canoas.
The two rafting companies in Boquete are professional outfits, but the sport is not without
risk. Bring sun block, trainers and a change of clothes (you will get wet and possibly
thrown out of the raft); don't be afraid to ask for clarification on safety issues, and know
your limits - the major rapids on the Chiriquí Viejo can be truly hair-raising.
HORSERIDING
Franklin Rovetto 6588 5054, [e-mail] . English-speaking local guide
who leads a 2hr horseback excursion across the open countryside in the foothills of the cor-
dillera round Caldera, ($35, including Boquete transfer).
CANOPY TOURS
Boquete Tree Trek Office in Plaza Los Establos, the zip line in Palo Alto 720 1635,
boquetetreetrek.com . The impressive canopy tour ($65, including transfer from town) al-
lows you to soar across valleys along steel cables, fastened into a harness high above Bo-
quete (1600m) in a 3km series of adrenaline surges that scarcely give you time to admire the
breathtaking scenery. After a 90min thrill you can chill at their pleasant terrace café-cum-bar-
restaurant - you can even stay overnight in spacious cabins here. Departures are at 8am and
10am Mon-Sat and 10am on Sun.
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Mountain bike rental ($15/day) from a stall in the Boquete Artisans' Village on the main
street - new bikes with helmets.