THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 271

GEISHA COFFEE
In most of the world, the word “ geisha ” evokes elaborately made-up Japanese entertainers.
Mention the word in Boquete and you'll be naming a deluxe beverage that took the spe-
ciality coffee world by storm in 2003, prompting ecstatic experts to exhaust their thesaur-
uses. As with fine wine, the world of gourmet coffee-tasting or cupping is full of hype,
jargon and poetry. Geisha has variously been characterized as spicy, honeyish, chocolatey
and citrusy, with one critic likening the experience to “diving head first into a swimming
pool of mixed fruits”. The fuss started when the small Hacienda Esmeralda began sampling
individual cups of beans from different parts of the farm - usually combined in blends -
and discovered an extraordinary Abyssinian variety that had been growing neglected for
some years. Having been declared the world's best coffee three times in the last decade by
the prestigious Specialty Coffee Association of America, the estate's Esmeralda Especial
is very much in demand, setting an auction record of $350 per pound in 2013. Since almost
all the farm's slender annual hundred-bag crop is exported you have a better chance of loc-
ating it at Fortnum & Mason than anywhere in Panama. While you won't get to sample any
Esmeraldas Special on a Boquete coffee tour , you will at least learn what goes into making
a great coffee.
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND: BOQUETE
By bus The only way to reach Boquete by bus is from David bus terminal (every 20min,
4.50am-9.45pm, returning at similar intervals 5.45am-9.45pm; 1hr); buses drop off passen-
gers on the west side of the main square, Parque Central, leaving just off the southeast corner
of the square.
Bocas Shuttle Hostel Mamallena (Plaza central 720 1260) runs a daily shuttle service to
Bocas del Toro, leaving 8am ($30/person including water-taxi, $25/person for Mamallena
guests).
On foot or by taxi Getting around the centre of Boquete is easily accomplished on foot,
while a $2-3 taxi ride will get you to most places on the fringes.
By minibus Boquete minibuses head up to the surrounding hillside hamlets such as Volcan-
cito and Alto Quiel, from various streets close to the park.
INFORMATION
Tourist information The tourist office (daily 8.30am-3.30pm; 720 4060) and adjacent
café is inconveniently, if splendidly, located on the bluff overlooking the town at Alto Bo-
quete, on the road to David. Although few speak English, the staff members are reasonably
helpful but you can get better advice from the hotels or tour operators.