Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ANAM OFFICES
Whichever side you choose to tackle Cerro Hoya, you will need to consult with ANAM: in
Las Tablas (
994 7313) or Cambutal (no phone); or in Santiago (
998 4271) from the Ver-
aguas side.
The Western Azuero
The little explored coastline of the
Western Azuero
is very different in feel to the dry flat
stretches of sand that line the eastern seaboard. Receiving much more rain, the countryside is
greener and lusher, despite the cattle-ranching and occasional rice cultivation. As the sole ac-
cess road threads its way further south across the increasingly undulating landscape it offers
tantalizing glimpses of rocky coastline, hidden coves and foaming surf. Best of all, since the
beaches face west, they witness glorious sunsets.
Settlements are few and far between in the Western Azuero: the first place of note, some
50km south of the turn-off from the Interamericana, is
MARIATO
, with a broad central
boulevard dotted with
fondas
, whose main feature is a temple-like bank, with ATM. With a
couple of small supermarkets and a petrol station, Mariato is a good place to stock up with
essentials if you're travelling in your own vehicle or planning on self-catering. Eleven kilo-
metres further south, the coastal village of
MALENA
is noteworthy for its turtle conserva-
tion project, which includes taking tourists on turtle watches in the season (July-Oct; 6685
8908,
playamalena.com
), while the tiny hilltop hamlet of
TORIO
, another 4km south, is
the unlikely centre of the area's nascent tourism scene, offering a couple of places to stay and
eat. The increasingly roller-coaster road then bypasses the new surfing hotspot of
PLAYA
MORILLO
, before arriving in Arenas and Flores, where the tarred road comes to a halt be-
fore the massif that is the Parque Nacional Cerro Hoya
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: THE WESTERN AZUERO
By bus
Infrequent buses run between Santiago and Mariato (approximately every 1hr-1hr
30min, 6am-6pm; 1hr), some of which continue to Torio.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
MARIATO
Hotel Heliconia
Main road, Palmilla, 8km south of Mariato 6676 0220,
hotelhel-
iconia.com
.
Modern, nicely furnished, four-room B&B with a porch offering comfortable
seating and surrounded by a lush tropical garden. The Dutch biologist owners are engaged in
reforestation projects and eco-tourism under the name of Tanager Tourism. The most pop
ular
trip is a three-day tour to Isla Coiba, but they can also arrange excursions to Cerro Hoya.
$75
