THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 259

substantial populations of white-tailed deer pick their way through the forest floor, shared
with agoutis, collared peccaries and coatis. As the park's name suggests ( hoya means river
bed), the massif nourishes over ten major rivers, home to caimans and otters, and hundreds
of streams that tumble down to the coast, leaving natural swimming pools and waterfalls in
their wake. The protected area extends out into the sea, including precious mangroves and
secluded coves enclosed by sheer cliffs, providing sheltered sands for hawksbill, olive ridley
and even some leatherback turtles to lay their eggs.
Created in 1985, in a desperate attempt to stop the Azuero's haemorrhaging of forest though
destructive agricultural practices, the national park and its protecting agencies are helping the
population of about two thousand - scattered around 25 communities - to make a livelihood
from sustainable agroforestry, eco-tourism, animal husbandry and fishing projects. The best
time to visit is in dry season when the views are more spectacular, the mud less overwhelm-
ing and the hiking more pleasurable, though waterfalls and rivers - two of the major attrac-
tions - are inevitably less impressive.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: PARQUE NACIONAL CERRO HOYA
FROM THE WEST
To Arenas and Flores Reaching the park is easier from the west, where a tarred road leaves
the Interamericana just east of Santiago, skirting the coast over 100km down to the villages
of Arenas and Flores. Both are served by infrequent buses from Santiago bus terminal.
From Arenas to the park boundary To reach the park proper necessitates travelling along
a dirt road, and crossing two major rivers for the remaining 18km from Arenas to Restingue,
a coastal hamlet at the park boundary. This is only possible in the dry season; once the rains
start, the Río Varadero becomes impassable.
Information and guides Enquire at the Hostal Familiar Iguana Verde ( 6865 8908) in

Malena ; the community turtle organization can arrange a local guide.
Organized tours You can explore the park with Tanager Tourism, run by the owners of Hotel
Heliconia .
FROM THE EAST
To El Cobachón To access Cerro Hoya from the east, take the dirt road west from Cambutal
for 22km to the hamlet of El Cobachón, close to the park boundary. Whether on horseback,
in a 4WD or on foot (which entails some shortcuts along the beach at low tide, so a tide
timetable is a necessity), the road from Cambutal is still only accessible in the dry season
since rivers need to be forded. Once there, Marcelino Rodríguez usually accepts campers at
his place, while Daniel Saénz comes highly recommended as a guide, and can also arrange
horses.
To Los Buzos Alternatively, take a boat from Cambutal or Los Buzos, which will be costly
($80), unless you get a lift with ANAM or catch a colectivo heading that way.