Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
FESTIVAL DE LA MEJORANA
Panama's largest and best folk festival is the
Festival de la Mejorana
(
festivalnacion-
aldelamejorana.com
)
, named after Panama's five-stringed guitar, the
mejoranera
. The five-
day jamboree, which coincides with the
patronales
for the Virgen de la Mercedes on
September 24, is for lovers of Hispanic traditions; there's not a techno-beat in earshot, and
although the booze flows as at most Panamanian festivals, it's a less hedonistic affair than
many. The plaza resounds with folk music day and night, and dancers and musicians from
around the country converge on the otherwise empty main square to entertain and compete.
Adults and children vie for medals in violin, accordion, or
mejoranera
playing, and drum-
ming, singing or dancing. Even traditional work clothes and activities are judged. Bull-
fights are also on the agenda, usually dominated by seco-sodden guys staggering around a
muddy field waving a filthy rag at a tired bull, cheered on by supporters - a far cry from the
celebrity matadors of Spain. The festival highlight on Sunday morning is the
Gran Desfile
de Carretas
, when superbly decorated ox-carts parade through the town, accompanied by
tunas
(African-inspired bands of call-and-response singers and drummers).
Inevitably all eyes are on the float carrying the
Reina del Festival de la Mejorana
,
decked out in her
pollera de gala
finery, topped by a gold crown. It's an incredibly pres-
tigious position, a national honour that lasts beyond the queen's year-long reign. What's
more, families are prepared to shell out $15,000 for the privilege, and that's just for starters.
Should there be more than one candidate at the October deadline, a run-off is held over
three rounds (
escrutinios
) lasting several months, during which the candidates' families
have to outdo each other in fundraising - a prospect that has the organizing committee rub-
bing its hands in glee since it means more cash for the festival coffers. The belle with the
most financial backing at the end gets to wear the crown; her rivals have to settle with be-
ing princesses. The highest sum paid so far to secure festival glory is $70,000, some of
which the queen gets to spend on her regalia - no cheap matter given that the elaborately
embroidered
polleras de gala
cost several thousand dollars - and on other necessities such
as dancing lessons and float decoration.
ARRIVAL AND ACCOMMODATION: GUARARÉ
By bus
Any Chitré-Las Tablas bus can drop you off on the Carretera Nacional at Guararé.
Hotel La Mejorana
Main road 994 5794.
Virtually the only place to stay in town though
it's near impossible to get a bed during the fest
ival
. Rooms are small but fairly comfortable
with lots of highly varnished wooden furniture.
$22
Las Tablas
Famed for hosting Panama's wildest Bacchanal during Carnaval, at any other time of year
LAS TABLAS
moves at a much more sedate pace. In comparison with neighbouring Chitré,
