Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
early twentieth century, and the best of their zoomorphic and anthropomorphic heads are now
scattered in museums in the US, with a few in Panama City's anthropological museum. Only
the
stone pedestals
remain. There are also
funeral mounds
, two of which have been excav-
ated, displaying fairly complete skeletons. One, presumed to be a chief's burial mound, has
thrown up a number of gold and emerald items, which are currently being examined by ar-
cheologists so not yet on display. A small
museum
displays ceramics and lesser stone statues
though was closed for restoration at the time of writing.
Natá
It's hard to picture
NATÁ
, a quiet backwater 7km south of the El Caño turn-off (11km north
of Aguadulce), as the major Spanish settlement it once was, until you arrive at the plaza to
be confronted with the expansive dazzling white Baroque facade of the
Basílica Menor San-
tiago Apostól
. Possibly the oldest church in the Americas still in use, and recently fully re-
stored to its former glory, the church bears testament to the town's historical importance.
Founded in 1522 by Gaspar de Espinosa (whose bust surveys the church from the square)
and named after the local indigenous chief, the town supposedly gained its subsequent full
name,
Santiago de Natá de los Caballeros
, from a hundred knights (
caballeros
) - hand-
picked by King Charles V of Spain - who were sent to subjugate the local population and
spread the Catholic word. The surrounding fertile plains made Natá a perfect base for con-
fronting the main indigenous resistance forces under
Cacique Urracá
, who relentlessly at-
tacked the site, and for providing supplies to the now long-abandoned gold mines on the
Caribbean coast.
Basílica Menor Santiago Apostól
Plaza 19 de Octubre • Daily 8am-6pm • Free
Apart from the splendid bell tower, the church's main attractions are the ornately
carved
wooden altars
framed by exquisite columns laden with vines, flowers and angels, which ad-
orn an otherwise simple wooden interior. Though the least elaborate, the main altar import-
antly contains images of the patron saint, Santiago el Menor (James the Lesser), and the co-
patron, San Juan de Díos, who are removed from their niches and paraded round the town on
their saint days of July 25 and March 8, respectively.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: NATÁ
By bus
Regional buses westbound to Aguadulce or eastbound to Penonomé drop and pick
up passengers at the entrance to Natá on the Interamericana (every 15-20min), a 10min walk
from the village. Local shuttles between Aguadulce and Penonomé may even enter for a
quick sweep of the plaza.
Playa El Salado
Driving southeast out of Aguadulce, a newly tarred road showcases the town's other two
major industries as it navigates 8km between mud and salt flats and shrimp farms to the
