Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PANAMA'S HAT - THE SOMBRERO PINTADO
Though not as famous nor as sought after as its Ecuadorian cousins, Panama's own straw
hats are growing in reputation. Ubiquitous in rural Panama, worn by men and women, both
as everyday work attire and a luxury accessory, they vary in style according to province and
function. But while the hats have their origins in indigenous societies, Coclé's sombrero
pintado or pintao (“painted hat”), which takes its name from the black and white design,
has become the most popular and emblematic.
Quality (and therefore price) is principally determined by the number of rings ( vueltas ),
but takes into consideration the consistency and fineness of the weave. A coarse seven-ring
weave takes a week to make and costs around $10-20 whereas a 22-ring fino usually re-
quires four to six weeks and can sell for up to $500. The cost may seem high, but immense
and skilled labour is involved. Once cut, the fibres are stripped from the leaves and cooked
to be made pliable before being dried and bleached in the sun. For a high-quality sombrero
pintado , the finest fibres are culled from bellota alongside coarser junco fibres, naturally
dyed by being boiled with chisná leaves and buried in earth for several days, to form the
distinctive black rings, while fine threads of sisal ( pita ) are used to stitch everything to-
gether.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LA PINTADA
By minibus Minibuses leave Penonomé for La Pintada every 10min (6am-8pm; 20min) from
behind the market. Return buses run to a similar timetable.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
La Pintada Inn 4km north of La Pintada 6539 6118 for Spanish, 6519 7848 for English,
lapintadainn.com . If you'd like a base up in the hills, head for this new eight-room B&B
in a lovely location beyond La Pintada and reachable by bus. It has a pleasant woodland walk
down to a river, where you can bathe, and also offers hiking and hor seriding. With advance
notice you can order dinner ($12.50) to enjoy in the lovely bohío . $50
Restaurante La Casa Vieja Main square 983 0597. A new addition to the few inexpensive
local restaurants dotted round the village, this more upmarket steakhouse serves a decent pep-
per steak among other meat and poultry dishes. Mains around $14-16. Mon-Thurs & Sun
noon-8pm, Fri & Sat noon-10pm.
Chiguirí Arriba and Churuquita Grande
From the market area in Penonomé, chivas head off through the surrounding cultivated
fields to villages scattered in the folds of the cool, forested mountains that rise to the north.
Chiguirí Arriba , 30km to the northeast, makes an easy day-trip, with plenty of good hiking
trails, spectacular views across forested limestone hummocks and a 30m waterfall, Cascada
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