Travel Reference
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ter, fan and cable TV) and an upstairs deck wi th hammocks and chairs. There's a restaurant
and craft shop downstairs and wi-fi access. $49
Hotel Residencial El Valle Av Central, by the market 983 6536, hotelresiden-
cialelvalle.com . The unpromising motel-like exterior belies light, comfy and clean en-suite
rooms with sizeable windows, cable TV and wi-fi. A great open-sided hammock deck
provides views across to the hills . O ther benefits include bike rental and use of communal
kitchen and laundry. A good deal. $55
Park Eden B&B C Espavé 983 6167, parkeden.com . The frilly furnishings may not be
to everyone's taste, but the comforts provided (microwave, cable TV, coffee maker, fridge)
and fabulous tr ee-fi lled grounds together with friendly service make this a good B&B. Pack-
ages available. $121
Restaurante Santa Librada Av Central 986 6376. The best budget option, located at the
back of a restaurant and opening onto a small garden. The handful of basic, clean r oom s have
cold-water showers; some are brighter than others and mattress quality is variable. $20
EATING AND DRINKING
Bruschetta Anton Valley Hotel, west end of Av Central 983 5118. The lively but cosy
atmosphere here, together with the moderate prices (salads $6-8; seafood dishes from $9),
makes this a popular place. The menu features Panamanian dishes, some international fa-
vourites and pseudo-Italian bruschettas. Since there's only a sprinkling of the sought-after
patio tables, it's worth booking ahead at weekends. Service can be slow. Daily 7-9.30am &
11am-11pm.
Buon Appetito Behind Panadería y Dulcería Cano . Tiny Italian-run pizzeria tucked away
behind the bakery, producing fresh, home-made pasta dishes and tasty, moderately priced
(under $9) thin-crust pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven. There are only four tables, so be
sure to reserve a spot - especially in the evening. Also does takeaway. Thurs & Fri 6-9pm,
Sat & Sun noon-9pm.
La Casa de Lourdes C El Ciclo, tucked behind Hotel Los Mandarinos 983 6450,
lacasadelourdes.info . Lovers of fine dining should make the pilgrimage to the spectacular
Tuscan-style villa-restaurant of celebrity chef Lourdes Fábrega de Ward, where inventive
gourmet Panamanian cuisine (such as corvina in cashew fruit) is served on the elegant
poolside terrace. Mains from around $20. Reservations a must at weekends. Daily noon-3pm
& 7-8.30pm.
Panadería y Dulcería Cano Av Central 983 6420. Just the place to stock up with some
sticky buns, cakes and bread to keep you going on a hike. Daily 7.30am-8pm.
Restaurante Mar de Plata Av Central below Hotel Don Pepe 983 6201. This great, cheer-
ful café-restaurant is a favourite lunchtime stop for Panamanian families. Tasty traditional
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