THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 196

ANAM office The ANAM park office ( 254 2848), where you may get a map, is on the left-
hand side of the road, after a winding 4km ascent from the Interamericana turn-off. Unfortu-
nately, it's over 3km further up the mountainside to the park itself and the trailhead, though
you may be able to persuade the bus to wait while you sort out the formalities.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Quesos Chela Interamericana 223 7835. If you've time, stock up with supplies en route
to the park in Capira at Quesos Chela, one of Panama's gastronomic gems, producing fresh
yoghurts, croissants, empanadas and a variety of European breads, as well as its renowned
cheeses. Daily 8am-8pm.
Refugio Los Pinos In the park . A pleasant camping spot surrounded by pine trees, about a
30min hik e from the trailhead. There's a latrine and space to make a fire but no water or elec-
tricity. $5 /person
The Pacific beaches
Once the Interamericana hits the coastal plain at the western edge of Panama Province, roads
start to branch off the main artery like blood vessels, feeding the various beaches along the
Pacific coast, with locations to suit surfers, swimmers and sunbathers and sand ranging from
charcoal grey through tan to pale cream.
Punta Chame
Travelling west along the Interamericana, the first exit travels the length of a 12km sandy spit
to the low-key fishing village of Punta Chame , where the vast flat beach, strong winds and
choppy waters have transformed this otherwise deserted swathe of sand into Panama's centre
of kitesurfing during the season (Nov-May; kitesurfingpanama.com , hokogi.com ) . Be-
ware the stingrays at low tide. At the mouth of the more sheltered Bay of Chame sits Isla
Taborcillo, dubbed Isla de John Wayne, which was purchased by the iconic actor after shoot-
ing Río Bravo in Panama and has now been converted into a family resort complete with
swinging saloon doors, sheriff's office and swaggering gunslinging tough guys.
Playa Gorgona to Playa Río Mar
Two popular getaways signposted off the Interamericana are playas Gorgona and Coronado ,
once the most fashionable weekend destinations for middle-class residents of Panama City,
with beachfront properties overlooking the marbled charcoal sand. There are two surfing
magnets in the neighbourhood - at Playa Malibu in Gorgona and at Punta Teta (predictably
dubbed “Tits” by surfing gringos), 3km down a dirt road not long after the Coronado exit.
The only substantial settlement in the area, 12km on from El Rey, just off the Interamericana,
is San Carlos , worth noting mainly as a place to buy provisions and catch a bus. The other
surfing hotspots in the area lie down two asphalt roads a few kilometres west of San Carlos
at Playa El Palmar and Playa Río Mar . Playa El Mar hosts one of Panama's longest-estab-