THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 169

get a chance to see brilliant chestnut-mandibled and keel-billed toucans, blue-headed parrots
and beautiful blue cotingas.
ARRIVAL AND TOURS: ACHIOTE
By bus From Colón, take the bus bound for Miguel de la Borda (daily 6.30am-7pm, approx-
imately every 45min; 45min-1hr to Achiote; 2hr 30min to Miguel de la Borda) or, more com-
monly, Río Indio, also confusingly marked “Costa Abajo”. The last bus back to Colón passes
through Achiote from Miguel de la Borda at 4-4.30pm.
Tours To visit the reserve, you need to arrange a guide for hiking or birdwatching (approx-
imately $25/2hr) with local eco-tourism group Los Rapaces ( 6122 0559), though they can
be hard to reach. They can also organize homestays and a visit to the local coffee farm ($2)
in the harvesting season (Dec-Jan).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
La Cascá Main road, towards the far end of the village. This inexpensive community res-
taurant serves up tasty, filling fare, though it's often be a case of eating whatever's in the pot
that day. Daily 7am-7pm.
Centro El Tucán Main road at the village entrance 6019 8753. The centre has two basic
dormitories (fans and mosquito screens) with shared cold-water showers, plus an on-site kit-
chen. Mobile coverage is intermittent here so if you fail to make contact in adv anc e you can
usually find someone to let you in, provided you arrive before nightfall. Dorms $10
Piña to Miguel de la Borda
There are regular buses from Colón to Miguel de la Borda, passing through Piña (6.30am-6pm, every 45min;
2hr 30min); boats to Coclé del Norte cost around $12/person
Beyond Achiote the road rises, twists and turns through pleasantly undulating pastures before
reaching the coast at the village of Piña . Here bracing winds and waves batter the rugged
coastline while treacherous currents throw up driftwood and fishing debris on the black-
streaked beaches. The coastal road meanders a further 40km through a string of settlements
to the village and river of Miguel de la Borda . Here, the truly adventurous can negotiate
passage by boat to the small community of Coclé del Norte , which maintains links with the
rest of the country via motorized dugout up the river of the same name to Coclecito, followed
by a colectivo to Penonomé . The boats leave infrequently and hardly at all when the seas are
rough (Nov-Feb).
There are currently no places to stay along this stretch of coast though you can probably
find a very basic bunk or hammock for the night, or pay to pitch a tent, with a little Spanish
and perseverance.
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