Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Exploring the fort
As you cross over the drawbridge (not the original one) and through the smart squat stone-
and-brick guardhouse , the main entrance to the fort, you come out onto the esplanade ,
which offers the best view of the fort and served to collect rainwater that was channelled off
into a water tank over the parapet in front of you. The vast grassy area below is the parade
ground , containing the ruined troops' and officers' quarters. Taking the ramp down, follow
the wall along to the ruins of the powder magazine and the tower built into the side of the
hill, now scarcely more than a deep hole filled with litter. Though the adjacent wall parapets
and cannons have now gone, the view is as it always was, and it's easy to picture watchmen
anxiously gazing out towards the horizon for enemy ships. Before climbing back up towards
the guardhouse, peer inside some of the many remarkably preserved vaults underneath the
esplanade, used to store equipment and food and, much later, prisoners. Crossing the draw-
bridge once more you'll find yourself on the exterior platform , with the one surviving sentry
box to the left. Here the parapet is still intact, as are the nine cannons pointing out towards
the putative enemy.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: FUERTE SAN LORENZO
By tour With no public transport to San Lorenzo, your best bet is to go on a tour - several op-
erators run day-trips from Panama City combining San Lorenzo with a visit to Gatún Locks
(approximately $210/person).
By taxi A taxi (including waiting time at the fort) from Colón will cost around $40-45.
By car Renting a car would allow you to stop off at Gatún Locks on the way, enjoy a bite
to eat at the Shelter Bay Marina , or explore more of the protected area. Once over the canal,
take the well-signposted road straight ahead towards Fort Sherman, the former US military
base. After crossing the remains of excavations made for the French canal, the road continues
for 12km, reaching a checkpoint at the entry to the former fort, where you may need to show
ID. The road to San Lorenzo bends off to the left, continuing for another 10km along a tarred
road to the fort. You'll come across the park office after a couple of kilometres, where there
may be someone to relieve you of your park fee.
The Costa Abajo
The area to the west of the canal is known as the Costa Abajo , which includes a number of
inland communities sandwiched between Lago Gatún and the Caribbean coast as well as a
handful of coastal villages. A hinterland in tourist terms, the area will really only appeal to
avid birdwatchers and those who want to get off the beaten track.
Two villages here earn a trickle of visitors. Escobal , attractively situated on Lago Gatún, is
a pleasant spot to engage in a little kayaking, fishing or horseriding while Achiote , further
inland, is a prime location for birdwatching. The other settlements strung out along the wild,
windswept coastline rarely see tourists.
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