Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
country's most visited national parks and well worth exploring. Stretching north and west
from the park office , which lies 15km northwest of Panama City, it hugs the canal and en-
circles Gamboa, covering over 190 square kilometres. The park encompasses a stretch of the
majestic Río Chagres , the canal's lifeblood, which you can explore by boat, and several well-
maintained trails either side of the town, including a stretch of the historic Camino de Cruces
and a world-renowned birding hotspot, the Camino del Oleoducto.
WILDLIFE IN THE PARQUE NACIONAL SOBERANÍA
With 525 recorded bird species, 105 mammals, 79 reptiles and 55 amphibians, the chances
of spotting wildlife in the Parque Nacional Soberanía are high. White-tailed deer, agoutis,
coatis, pacas, howler monkeys and Geoffroy's tamarins are fairly commonplace, but you'll
need a good guide to locate the rarer, more elusive nocturnal kinkajous or silky anteaters.
Following an extensive breeding programme, several harpy eagles have been released into
the park in recent years so there is a slim chance of catching sight of these endangered
birds. Other birds to look out for include crested eagles, red-lored Amazons, great jacamars
and trogons - the park's symbol.
The trails
You can pick up a map and pay your fee at the office or at the entry barrier to the Camino de
Oleoducto, if there is someone there when you arrive. There are three substantial trails with-
in the park, although they're not particularly close to each other or the park office, arguably
making the area best enjoyed with a car, parking at the various trailheads, or on a tour .
Although most of Soberanía's trails are easy and safe enough to do on your own, you're
strongly advised to hike the Camino de Cruces with a guide as the trail is overgrown and dif-
ficult to follow in places and the occasional robbery has been known. Several Panama City
tour operators do the trip, as well as offering excursions to the Camino de Oleoducto, which
would solve the transport difficulties, or you can hire a ranger from the park office as a guide
- a much cheaper option, though they are unlikely to speak English.
Camino del Oleoducto
By far the most tramped trail is the unpromising-sounding Camino del Oleoducto (Pipeline
Road), so named because it was originally built to service an oil pipeline constructed across
the isthmus by the US in World War II in case transportation via the canal became impossible.
The pipeline was never used but the 17.5km dirt-road service track, which lies a kilometre
beyond Gamboa, draws birding enthusiasts from around the world. Though visually unre-
markable since it is no wilderness trail, the likely wildlife sightings more than compensate.
Even if you can't tell a white-whiskered puffbird from a band-tailed barbthroat, you cannot
fail to be impressed by the array of brightly coloured birds, and you'll see a great deal more
if you go with a good guide (see Travel essentials & Tour operators ) .
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