Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
6
A Bit of Tortola History
The peaceful Taíno Indians were the
first settlers on Tortola. Perhaps they
saw Columbus sail by in 1493 on his
second voyage to the New World, but
he didn't come ashore. Even though Sir
Frances Drake arrived on the shores in
1595, it wasn't until the late 17th cen-
tury that British claimed the islands.
The seat of the British colony moved
from Virgin Gorda to Tortola in 1741.
Inexpensive
Jolly Roger SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL This open-air bar and restaurant
is a local favorite, and popular with sailors. Diners come for the stewed and cracked
conch, unique pizzas, and great burgers, but the best thing about the Jolly Roger is
the staff. Just stick your head into the kitchen and ask Wanda for one of her great
omelets for breakfast (she's here for lunch, too). The house specialty is homemade
Key lime pie—don't miss it. Check the schedule or call to ask about the weekend
Caribbean barbecue and live entertainment, put on several nights a week.
In the Jolly Roger Inn (p.  207), West End. &   284/495-4559. www.jollyrogerbvi.com. Main courses
$12-$25; pizzas from $12. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am-10pm. Closed Aug-Sept.
Sebastian's Seaside Grill INTERNATIONAL Sebastian's is a good choice if
you're in the West End area for lunch. The wooden tables and rush-bottomed chairs
here are scattered, Polynesian-style, beneath a rustic yet comfortable pavilion a few
feet from the waves. Sun lovers sit within the open courtyard nearby. Choices include
hot sandwiches, West Indian fritters, a homemade soup of the day, and burgers—
nothing special, but it's all satisfying. At night, dishes have more flair and flavor. Your
best bet is the fresh fish of the day, which can be pan fried, grilled, or blackened, and
is served with a choice of sauces, including a local blend of seasonings and spices.
You might also try the Jamaican jerk chicken or vegetable casserole. Weekends there
is a live band at dinner.
In Sebastian's on the Beach (p. 206), West End. &   284/495-4212. www.sebastiansbvi.com. Reserva-
tions required for dinner. Main courses lunch $5-$13, dinner $18-$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am-
10:30pm.
Beaches
Tortola's wide sandy beaches are rarely crowded on Tortola, unless a cruise ship is in
port. The best beaches are on the northern coast, especially Cane Garden Bay with
its silky stretch of sand and gin-clear waters. Apple Bay is best for surfers, and Long
Bay West is a dazzling strip of white sand running for a mile. Reached down a horrible
road, riddled with pot holes, Smugglers Cove, with its palm-fringed beach, is worth
the trouble to get there. Note: If you take a taxi to the sands, don't forget to arrange
a time to be picked up.
Tortola's finest beach is Cane Garden Bay , on the aptly named Cane Garden
Bay Road, directly west of Road Town. You'll have to navigate some roller-coaster hills
to get there, but these fine white sands, with sheltering palm trees and gentle surf,
are among the most popular in the B.V.I., and the lovely bay is many a yachtie's favor-
ite. Outfitters here rent Hobie Cats, kayaks, and sailboards. Windsurfing is possible
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