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you with a home-cooked five-course dinner. You'll get good food, made with fresh
ingredients, and a warm welcome from the Rhymers. (Mr. Rhymer may even regale
you with stories about Jimmy Carter and other luminaries that he's met during his
hospitality career.) The villa opens onto a panoramic vista over Cane Garden Bay
Beach. This is one of the best vantage points for enjoying the sinking sun, so you may
want to arrive early to enjoy the view.
The menu changes every night based on market availability. Sample dishes include
Cornish game hen in a fruit-flavored tropical sauce, poached mahimahi in a delec-
table garlic-laced lemon-butter sauce, and tender and perfectly roasted prime rib.
You must call for a reservation as early as possible, as this is a small and special
place. If you're interested, there is a one-bedroom apartment here that goes for $800
a week in winter, reduced to $500 a week off season. The apartment offers a hand-
somely furnished bedroom with a queen-size bed, along with a sizeable eat-in kitchen
and a living room with a TV.
West End, Tortola &   284/495-9353. Fax 284/495-9458. Reservations required. Fixed-price 5-course
dinner $55 per person. No credit cards. Daily at 7pm.
Sugar Mill Restaurant CALIFORNIA/CARIBBEAN This transformed
3-century-old sugar mill is a romantic spot for dining. Colorful works by Haitian
painters hang on the old stone walls, and big copper basins have been planted with
tropical flowers. Before going to the dining room, once part of the old boiling
house, visit the open-air bar on a deck that overlooks the sea. Your hosts, the Mor-
gans, know a lot about food and wine. Some of their recipes have even been
printed in Gourmet. One of their most popular creations, published in Bon Appétit,
is curried banana soup. You might also begin with the roasted-pepper salad or the
especially tasty wild-mushroom soup. For a main course, we recommend the pan-
roasted duck breast served with Asian coleslaw and soba noodles, or the grilled
fresh fish with a pineapple-pepper salsa.
In the Sugar Mill Hotel (p.  203), Apple Bay. &   284/495-4355. www.sugarmillhotel.com/restaurant.
Reservations required. Main courses $26-$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 8-10am, noon-2pm, and 7-9pm. Closed
Aug-Sept. From Road Town, drive west 11km (6 3 4 miles), turn right (north) over Zion Hill, and turn right
at the T-junction opposite Sebastian's on the Beach; Sugar Mill is .8km ( 1 2 mile) down the road.
Moderate
Pegleg Landing INTERNATIONAL This restaurant lies 2.4km (1 1 2 miles)
southwest of Road Town, overlooking the yachts of the Nanny Cay Marina. You'll find
accents of stained glass, mastheads from old clipper ships, lots of rustic paneling, and
a nautical theme brought to life by the views and breezes from the sea. Food is com-
petent, but hardly exciting. Specialties include charbroiled New York strip steak with
mushrooms, and fresh filets of fish, such as dolphin (again, not Flipper), swordfish,
tuna, and wahoo.
At the Nanny Cay Marina and Hotel (p. 219). &   284/494-0028. Reservations required. Main courses
$18-$35. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am-midnight.
Pusser's East CARIBBEAN/BARBECUE Behind a protective reef at Maya
Cove, you can enjoy the best ribs in the B.V.I., at least the equal of some of those
served in Georgia and the Carolinas. This place has the look of an American sports
bar, except for the covered porch that sprawls 30m (98 ft.) over the water. You can
order from a selection of appetizers such as saltfish cakes and soups (including West
Indian pumpkin). The famed barbecued Danish baby back ribs, served at both lunch
and dinner, are marinated in Guinness and then perfectly grilled with the chef 's
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