Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Notorious Pirate: Sir Francis Drake
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Sir Francis Drake (1543-96) was an
English navigator and explorer famous
for leading his country's defense
against the Spanish Armada in 1588.
He was also one of the most notorious
pirates in the Caribbean. Arriving in the
West Indies as the young captain of the
Judith, this favorite of Queen Elizabeth I
brought the swashbuckling attitudes
of the Elizabethan Age to the Virgin
Islands. Although a military hero to the
English, he was a pirate to his main
enemy, the Spaniards. Because of his
attacks on Spanish ships, King Phillip II
put a reward of 20,000 ducats on his
head (or $6.5 million in today's U.S.
currency). A channel through the Virgin
Islands now bears his name. In 1580,
Drake became the first Englishman to
circumnavigate the globe. He died
aboard his ship off Panama on January
27, 1596, and was buried at sea.
The Sugar Mill Hotel On a 2-hecatare (5-acre) site opening onto Apple Bay,
this inn combines a first-rate cuisine with intimate accommodations. Set in a lush
tropical garden on the site of a 300-year-old sugar mill on the north side of Tortola,
this secluded cottage colony sweeps down the hillside to its own little beach, with
vibrant flowers and fruits brightening the grounds. The accommodations are contem-
porary and well designed, ranging from suites and cottages to studios, all with kitch-
enettes. The most modern addition, the Plantation House suites, relies on traditional
Caribbean architectural tastes, complete with an airy porch and gingerbread detail-
ing. Families might opt for a two-bedroom villa, or a pool suite, which has a sleeper
couch.
Lunch is served down by the beach at Islands, which features standard Caribbean
specialties such as jerk ribs and stuffed crab, plus burgers and salads. Dinner is
offered at the acclaimed Sugar Mill Restaurant (p. 212).
Apple Bay (P.O. Box 425), Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I. www.sugarmillhotel.com. &   800/462-8834 in the
U.S., or 284/495-4355. Fax 284/495-4696. 23 units. Winter $340 double, $380 triple, $395 quad, $695
2-bedroom villa; off season $255-$275 double, $305 triple, $330-$350 quad, $275-$295 1-bedroom
villa, $535-$585 2-bedroom villa. MAP (breakfast and dinner) $70 per person extra. Children 11 and
under not accepted in winter, but stay free in parent's room mid-Apr to mid-Dec. AE, MC, V. Closed
Aug-Sept. From Road Town, drive west 11km (6 3 4 miles), turn right (north) over Zion Hill, and turn right
at the T-junction opposite Sebastian's; Sugar Mill is .8km ( 1 2 mile) down the road. Amenities: 2 restau-
rants; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; pool (outdoor). In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV (in some), hair dryer,
Wi-Fi (free).
Expensive
Cooper Island Beach Club In the northwest corner of Tortola, this mini-
resort opens onto Manchioneel Bay in a setting of coconut palms. It's especially
popular with certified divers, as many of the Caribbean's most celebrated dive sites
are easily accessible, with all their coral gardens, canyons, and shipwrecks. This ulti-
mate escapist's retreat is far from luxurious, but is the perfect place for those who
want simplicity. This one-of-a-kind hotel lies on a hilly island on the southern tier of
the Sir Francis Drake Channel, about 8km (5 miles) south of Tortola. A ferry con-
nects the island to Road Town. Snorkelers come here for the waters at the southern
end of Manchioneel Bay, and charter boaters often stop off to eat at the casual beach-
front restaurant, which serves marvelous grilled fish and makes a mean conch Creole.
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