Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
nerve center where you can drop in for a “cuppa” or to use the Internet. You can find
reading material here for the beach along with music CDs, cotton resort wear, and,
of course, campy picture frames decorated with pinkish shells gathered on the beach.
Fabric Mill, Mongoose Junction ( &   340/776-6194 ), features silk-screened and
batik fabrics from around the world and around the corner. Vibrant rugs and bed,
bathroom, and table linens can add a Caribbean flair to your home. Whimsical soft
sculpture, sarongs, scarves, and handbags are also made here.
The Marketplace, Cruz Bay ( &   340/776-6455 ), with its dramatic architecture
and native stone, is a cool place to shop on a hot day, thanks to its verandas and
courtyards. It's ideal if you're renting a condo on St. John, as many visitors do, as the
market here includes everything from a hardware shop to a video store, plus health-
care needs and a lot more.
R&I PATTON Goldsmithing, Mongoose Junction ( &   340/776-6548; www.
pattongold.com), is one of the oldest businesses on the island. Three-quarters of the
merchandise here is made on St. John, with a large selection of jewelry in sterling
silver, gold, and precious stones. Also featured are the works of goldsmiths from out-
standing American studios, as well as Spanish coins.
The location of the Shop at Caneel Bay, in the Caneel Bay resort ( &   340/776-
6111 ), guarantees both an upscale clientele and an upscale assortment of merchan-
dise. Scattered over two simple, elegant floors are drugstore items, books, sundries,
and handicrafts, as well as some unusual artwork and pieces of expensive jewelry.
There are also racks of resort wear and sportswear for men and women. The shop
carries handbags and watches by top designers.
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ST. JOHN AFTER DARK
Bring a good book. When it comes to nightlife, St. John is no St. Thomas, and every-
body here seems to want to keep it that way. Most people are content to have a lei-
surely dinner and then head to bed.
The Caneel Bay Bar, at the Caneel Bay resort ( &   340/776-6111 ), has live
music Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 11pm. The most popular drinks are the Cool
Caneel (local rum with sugar, lime, and anisette) and the trademark Plantation
Punch (lime and orange juice with three kinds of rum, bitters, and nutmeg).
If you'd like to drink and gossip with the locals, try JJ's Texas Coast Café, Cruz
Bay ( &   340/776-6908 ), a real dive, across the park from the ferry dock, open 8am
to 9pm. The margaritas here are lethal. Also at Cruz Bay, check out the action at
Fred's ( &   340/776-6363 ), across from the Lime Inn. Fred's brings in bands and
has dancing on Friday nights. It's just a little hole in the wall and can get crowded
fast. It's open 10am to 5pm, but stays open until Saturday morning.
St. John's best sports bar is Skinny Legs, Emmaus, Coral Bay, beyond the fire
station ( &   340/779-4982 ). This shack made of tin and wood also happens to have
the best burgers in St. John. (The chili dogs aren't bad, either.) The yachting crowd
likes to hang out here, though you wouldn't know it at first glance—it often seems
that the richer they are, the poorer they dress. The bar has a satellite dish, a dart-
board, and horseshoe pits. There is live music on Friday and Saturday nights during
high season when it stays open until midnight; regular hours are 11am to 9pm.
Morgan's Mango (p.  126; &   340/693-8141 ), a restaurant, is also one of the
hottest watering holes on the island. It's in Cruz Bay, across from the national park
dock. Count yourself lucky if you get in on a crowded night in winter. The place
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