Paris & Around - Discover France: Experience the Best of France - page 182

( 01 42 54 44 36; 20 rue Germain Pilon, 18e; mains €17-22; dinner Mon-Sat;
Abbesses) In the heart of one of the capital's most touristy neighbourhoods, Chez
Toinette has kept alive the tradition of old Montmartre with its simplicity and culinary
expertise. Perdreau (partridge), biche (doe), chevreuil (roebuck) and the famous
filet de canard à la sauge et au miel (fillet of duck with sage and honey) are house
specialities.

LE CAFÉ QUI PARLE €€
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Modern French

( 01 46 06 06 88; 24 rue Caulaincourt, 18e; menus €12.50 & €17; lunch & dinner
Mon-Sat, lunch Sun; Lamarck Caulaincourt or Blanche) We love the Talking
Café's wall art and ancient safes below (the building was once a bank), but not as
much as we love its weekend brunch (€17).

Drinking

LE FUMOIR
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Cocktail Bar

( 6 rue de l'Amiral Coligny, 1er; 11am-2am; Louvre-Rivoli) This colonial-style bar
and restaurant opposite the Louvre's eastern flank is a fine place to sip top-notch
gin from quality glassware while nibbling on olives at the vintage mahogany bar.

LE COCHON À L'OREILLE
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Bar, Café

( 15 rue Montmartre, 1er; 10am-11pm Tue-Sat; Les Halles or Étienne Marcel) A
Parisian bijou , this heritage-listed hole-in-the wall retains its belle époque tiles with
market scenes of Les Halles and just eight tiny tables.

LE PURE CAFÉ
(14 rue Jean Macé, 11e; 7am-2am; Charonne) This old café moonlights as res-
taurant, but we like it as it was intended to be, especially over a grand crème (large
white coffee) and the papers on Sunday morning.

Café

AU SAUVIGNON Wine Bar