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Scallops from rue Cler market
MARTIN MOOS
HÔTEL DU NORD €€
( 01 40 40 78 78; www.hoteldunord.org ; 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10e; lunch menu
€13.50, mains €15-23; 9am-2.30am; Jacques Bonsergent) The setting for
the eponymous 1938 film starring Louis Jouvet and Arletty, the interior of this vin-
tage café feels as if it is stuck in a time warp with its zinc counter, red velvet cur-
tains and old piano. Food is definitely modernist, though.
Modern French
Montmartre & Pigalle
When you've got Sacré Cœur, place du Tertre and Paris literally at your feet, who
needs decent restaurants? But that's not to say that everything is a write-off in this
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