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and devout crowd of regulars is an authentic bistro choice. Its classic dishes are as-
tonishingly good value.
BOUILLON RACINE €€
Offline map Google map
Traditional French
( 01 44 32 15 60; 3 rue Racine, 6e; lunch/dinner menu €14.90/29.50; Cluny-La
Sorbonne) This 'soup kitchen' built in 1906 to feed city workers is an art nouveau
palace. Age-old recipes such as roast snails, caille confite (preserved quail) and
lamb shank with liquorice inspire the menu.
Top Five Food Markets
» Marché Bastille Offline map Google map ( bd Richard Lenoir, 11e;
7am-2.30pm
Thu & Sun; Bastille or Richard Lenoir) The best open-air market in Paris.
» Marché Belleville (bd de Belleville btwn rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud & rue du Faubourg du
Temple, 11e & 20e;
7am-2.30pm Tue & Fri;
Belleville or Couronne) Fascinating entry
into the vibrant communities of eastern Paris.
» Marché Couvert St-Quentin ( Offline map 85 bd de Magenta, 10e;
8am-1pm &
3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 8.30am-1pm Sun; Gare de l'Est) Iron-and-glass covered market
built in 1866; lots of gourmet and upmarket food stalls.
» Rue Cler ( Offline map Google map rue Cler, 7e; 8am-7pm Tue-Sat, 8am-noon
Sun; École Militaire) Fabulous street market that almost feels like a party at weekends
when the whole neighbourhood shops en masse.
» Rue Mouffetard ( Offline map Google map rue Mouffetard;
8am-7.30pm Tue-
Sat, 8am-noon Sun;
Censier Daubenton) Paris' most photogenic market street.
Montparnasse
Since the 1920s, the area around bd du Montparnasse has been one of Paris'
premier avenues for enjoying café life, though younger Parisians deem the quarter
somewhat démodé and touristy these days.
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