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present-day heartbeat), the Capilla Real and the city's wonderful tapas culture de-
serve another day at least. Away to the northwest by road or by rail (change in
Bobadilla), (2) Córdoba is every bit as impressive. Córdoba's Mezquita, which
dates from the early Islamic period, is the perfect complement to Granada's Alham-
bra: together they stand as bookends to the historical story of Al-Andalus. Cór-
doba's Judería, which surrounds the Mezquita, deserves as much time as you can
give it. Its tangled, whitewashed lanes were once a symbol of Córdoba's en-
lightened religious tolerance in the Middle Ages; here you'll find one of just three
medieval synagogues left in Spain.
SEVILLE TO CÁDIZ FLAMENCO & SHERRY
Flamenco was born in eastern Andalucía, and it's in the intimate tiled courtyards of
(1) Seville , the genre's reputed birthplace, where you can still hear flamenco in its
purest form. With hundreds of tapas bars nearby and monuments to visit, Seville
deserves at least two days. An hour south of Seville by regular train, or just off the
AP4, (2) Jerez de la Frontera shares many of the same passions - it's a hotbed of
authentic flamenco (ask at the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco for the latest perform-
ances), a fantastic place to eat, and famous for its Andalucian horses. Jerez also
has world-renowned sherry bodegas, most of which run tours. A short distance
away the burning white hill-town of (3) Arcos de la Frontera is one of the signature
images of sultry southern Spain and is the pueblo blanco (white village) par excel-
lence . Just over an hour to the south, (4) Cádiz is Europe's oldest continuously in-
habited city, and one of Spain's most engaging seaside towns.
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