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crotel Placentinos is tucked away on a quiet street and has rooms with exposed
stone walls and wooden beams. All rooms have a hydromassage shower or tub and
there is a summer-only outside whirpool spa.
HOSTAL CONCEJO €€
( 923 21 47 37; www.hconcejo.com , in Spanish; Plaza de la Libertad 1; s/d/tr €45/
62/80; ) A cut above the average hostal, the stylish Concejo has
polished-wood floors, tasteful furnishings and a superb central location. Try and
snag one of the corner rooms (like number 104) with its traditional glassed-in bal-
cony, complete with a table, chairs and people-watching views.
Small Hotel
HOTEL RECTOR €€€
( 923 21 84 82; www.hotelrector.com ; Paseo del Rector Esperabé 10; r incl break-
fast €152; ) This luxurious hotel is an oasis of calm and luxury, and the
antithesis of the cookie-cut homogeneity of the five-star chains. Expect vases of
orchids, stained-glass windows, intricately carved antiques and excellent service,
as well as sumptuous, carpeted rooms.
Classic Hotel
Eating
MESÓN LAS CONCHAS €€
(Rúa Mayor 16; meals €25-30) Enjoy a choice of outdoor tables (in summer), an at-
mospheric bar or the upstairs, wood-beamed dining area. The bar caters mainly to
locals who know their embutidos (cured meats). For sit-down meals, there's a good
mix of roasts, platos combinados and raciones .
Grilled Meats
MESÓN CERVANTES €€
(Plaza Mayor 15; meals €15-20; 10am-midnight) This is another great place where
you can eat at the outdoor tables on the plaza, but the dark wooden beams and at-
mospheric buzz of the Spanish crowd on the 1st floor should be experienced at
least once. The food's a mix of platos combinados, salads and raciones .
Traditional Castilian
EL PECADO €€
( 923 26 65 58; Plaza de Poeta Iglesias 12; meals €40, menú de degustación €45;
) A trendy place that regularly attracts Spanish celebrities (eg Pedro Almodóvar
and Ferran Adrià), El Pecado ('The Sin') has an intimate dining room and quirky,
Modern Creative
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