Basque Spain & Camino de Santiago - Discover Spain: Experience the Best of Spain - page 269

Away from the heroics and chaos of Sanfermines, Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, is
well worth a visit at any time of year (although there is an overriding sensation that you're
the one who missed the party ). The city has an interesting old quarter centred on its
cathedral and an attractive plaza, plenty of parks and green spaces and a couple of
worthwhile museums. It's also the best gateway for the western Pyrenees.
LA RIOJA
La Rioja wine rolls on and off the tongue with ease, by name as well as by taste. All
wine fanciers know the famous wines of La Rioja, where the vine has been cultiv-
ated since Roman times. The region is classic vine country and vineyards cover the
hinterland of Río Ebro. On the river's north bank, the region is part of the Basque
Country and is known as La Rioja Alavesa.
Briones
POP 900 / ELEV 501M
One man's dream is putting the small, obscenely quaint village of Briones firmly on
the Spanish wine and tourism map. The sunset-gold village crawls gently up a hill-
side and offers commanding views over the surrounding vine-carpeted plains,
where you will find the fantastic Dinastía Vivanco (Museo de la Cultura del Vino;
www.dinastiavivanco.com ; adult/child €7.50/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Thu & Sun,
10am-8pm Fri & Sat) . This space-age museum is the creation of Pedro Vivanco
Paracuello. Over several floors and numerous rooms, you will learn all about the
history and culture of wine and the various processes that go into its production.
Currently the only place to rest wine-heavy heads is Los Calaos de Briones (
941 32 21 31; www.loscalaosdebriones.com ; Calle San Juan 13; r €58) , which has
pleasant rooms in shades of peach and sky blue. Some have suitably romantic
four-posters. The attached restaurant is stuffed with excellent locally inspired
cuisine (mains €12 to €15).
The village is several kilometres southeast of Haro and a couple of buses a day
trundle out here.