Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Because you see, taking a dip in the Ganges is not like taking a dip in the crisp blue
waters of Lake Como. Although it is one of the holiest rivers in the world, it is also one of
the dirtiest. I had seen numerous dead carcasses floating past me. A dog. Two cows. A few
unidentified objects.
They say that in taking a dip in the Ganges you cleanse yourself of all your pain and
suffering, but as Dilip and I drove along the dark and dreary water, I asked him: “Have you
ever
actually
swum in the Ganges?”
“Yes,” he replied, looking out across the water, clearly not feeling the same agitation
that I was. I later found out that Dilip was from one of the lower castes in India. Though he
wasn't a Dalit—one of the “Untouchables,” as they are referred to—he came low enough
on the rung that being a riverboat driver was nearly akin to being a king. He wasn't break-
ing out of his caste, but he certainly wasn't being defined by it, either. He had chosen a path
that few in his family would have ever dared to try.
I continued speaking even if my guide was less talkative, “It's so interesting to me that
they use the Ganges for life, they use the Ganges for death . . . it's everything. It's like the
circle of life.”
When Dilip didn't respond, I confirmed. “Have generations of your family lived and
died on the Ganges?”
“Of course,” Dilip replied again nonchalantly before looking at me in earnest. “Many
people do like this. I am no different.”
Dilip pulled the boat over. It was time for us to receive purification and hopefully not a
deadly case of typhoid.
“Are you sure this is a wise thing to do?” I asked, finally feeling the fear move through
me as we stripped down to our shorts.
“Yes,” Dilip responded. “Swimming in the Ganges will purify your karma. Clean the
soul.”
Dilip offered me a large red scarf to wrap around my waist, which apparently was the
proper attire for swimming in the Ganges. He looked out again over the water, “This is
God. By feeling the vibrations, you're always thinking, always changing.”
We said a prayer together, and then I stepped apprehensively into the cold water. Dilip
moved quickly passed me, submerging himself and splashing the water on his face.
“I'm definitely not going to do that,” I thought out loud, not even realizing the words
were escaping me.
Dilip laughed, “It's okay, Leon. Many Westerners come swim in the Ganges.”
