Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A DETOUR
THE CISTERCIAN ROUTE
Set between Tarragona and Lleida, and a great way to explore inland Catalonia en
route between coast and mountains, is a trio of grand Cistercian monasteries along
the so-called
Ruta del Cister
(Ruta del Cister;
www.larutadelcister.info
;
combined 3-monastery ticket
€9)
.
Following the AP7 freeway southwest from Vilafranca, take the AP2 fork about 18km
west, then exit 11 north for the excellent
Reial Monestir de Santes Creus
(Plaça de
Jaume el Just, Santes Creus; adult/senior & student €4.50/free; 10am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-
May)
. Cistercian monks moved in here in 1168 and from then on the monastery deve-
loped as a major centre of learning and a launch pad for the repopulation of the sur-
rounding territory. Behind the Romanesque and Gothic facade lies a glorious 14th-
century sandstone cloister, austere chapter house, cavernous dormitory and royal
apartments where thecomtes-reis(count-kings; rulers of the joint state of Catalonia
and Aragón) often stayed when they popped by during Holy Week. The church, begun
in the 12th century, is a lofty Gothic structure in the French tradition, with a couple of
fabulous royal tombs. An audiovisual presentation gives background info.
Back on the AP2, travel another 22km to the medieval town of Montblanc, still sur-
rounded by its defensive walls, and then L'Espluga de Francolí, beyond which you con-
Vimbodí-Poblet; adult/student €7/4; 10am-12.45pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun)
,
a Unesco World Heritage site. Founded in 1151, it became Catalonia's most powerful
monastery and the burial place of many of its rulers. Poblet was sacked in 1835 by
marauding peasants as payback for the monks' abuse of their feudal powers, which
included imprisonment and torture. A community of Cistercian monks moved back in
after the Spanish Civil War and did much to restore the monastery to its former glory.
High points include the mostly Gothic main cloister and the alabaster sculptural treas-
ures of the Panteón de los Reyes (Kings' Pantheon). The raised alabaster sarcophagi
contain eight Catalan kings, such greats as Jaume I (the conqueror of Mallorca and
Valencia) and Pere III.
Swinging away north from Montblanc (take the C14 and then branch west along the
LP2335), country roads guide you into the low hills of the Serra del Tallat to
Reial
Monestir de Santa Maria de Vallbona de les Monges
( 973 33 02 66; Carrer Major, Vall-
bona de les Monges; adult/child €4/1; 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm &
4.30-6.45pm Sun Mar-Oct, closes 5.30pm rest of year)
. It was founded in the 12th century and is
where a dozenmonges(nuns) still live and pray. You will be taken on an informative
