Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A DETOUR
DALÍ DELIRIUM
Salvador Dalí was born in Figueres in 1904, but his career took him to Madrid, Bar-
celona, Paris and the USA. He remained true to his roots and has left his mark in sev-
eral locations around Catalonia, particularly at his seaside residence in Portlligat and
his inland 'castle', Castell de Púbol.
Located by a peaceful cove inPorrtllig
tlligatt, a tiny fishing settlement a 20-minute walk
€11/free; 10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed Jan-mid-Feb)
- the lifelong residence of Dalí - started
life as a mere fisherman's hut, and was steadily altered and enlarged by Dalí, who lived
here with his wife from 1930 to 1982. If the Teatre-Museu Dalí is the mask that the
showman presented to the world, then this is an intimate glimpse of his actual face.
This splendid, bizarre whitewashed structure is a mishmash of cottages and sunny
terraces, linked together by narrow labyrinthine corridors and containing an assort-
ment of offbeat furnishings. Compulsory small-group tours are conducted by multilin-
gual guides; booking a day or three ahead - you can do this online or by phone - is es-
sential.
10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar-early Jan)
, in the village of La Pera, just south of the C66 road
between Girona and Palafrugell, is a Gothic and Renaissance mansion, purchased by
Dalí in 1969 as a retreat for his wife, Gala, who lived here until her death at 88 in 1982.
An inconsolable Dalí then moved in himself, but was removed by friends after starting
a fire in 1984. Though much of the castle was decorated according to Gala's taste, Dalí
touches do creep in in the form of spindly legged elephant statues in the maze-like
garden, a see-through table with a horse visible below and a stuffed giraffe staring at
Gala's tomb in the crypt.
Figueres (€5.50, one hour, four weekdays); there are also connections from Barcelona
and Girona. For the Castell de Púbol, catch a bus to Cruilla de la Pera from Girona (€3,
40 minutes) or Palafrugell, alight at the stop on the C66 and walk the 2km to the
castle, or else take a train from Girona to Flaça (hourly, €2.50, 12 minutes) then catch
a taxi the last 4km.
