El Raval - Barcelona - page 160

You'll recognise similarly sinuous curves as you enter 2 Bar Muy Buenas , on Carrer
del Carme. Opened as a milk bar in the late 19th century, it retains much of its original
decoration. It's a welcoming, cosy spot for a tipple and snacks.
On Carrer de Sant Pau, past the Romanesque church, drop by 3 La Confitería ,
once a barber's shop and then a long-time confectioner's. It was lovingly restored for
its reconversion into a bar in 1998. Most of the elements, including facade, bar
counter and cabinets, are the real deal.
The 4 Hotel España is known above all for its dining rooms, part of the 1903 design
by Domènech i Montaner. The Sala Arnau (Arnau Room) features a magnificent ala-
baster fireplace designed by Eusebi Arnau. Moderately priced traditional Catalan fare
is served.
While wandering around El Raval you should not miss its Modernista star, one of
Gaudí's earlier big commissions, 5 Palau Güell , a remarkable building recently renov-
ated to perfection. If passing by at night while doing a round of the bars, make a note
to return here by day.
A classic of Barcelona nightlife for over a century, the 6 London Bar displays
Modernista decor and is run by the family of the waiter who founded it in 1910. In its
heyday it stayed open 24 hours and attracted the likes of Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró
for countless swift beers.

EATING

For contrast alone, El Raval is possibly the most interesting part of the old
city. Timeless classics of Barcelona dining are scattered across what was
long the old city's poorest barri, and since the late 1990s, battalions of hip
new eateries and artsy restaurants can be found in the area around the
MACBA. Some of the cheapest eats in town, full of character, lurk along El
Raval's streets. From Carrer de Sant Pau north towards Carrer de Pelai, the
university and Ronda de Sant Antoni is where you'll find most of these
haunts.

CATALAN

ELISABETS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 93 317 58 26; Carrer d'Elisabets 2-4; mains €8-10; 7.30am-11pm Mon-

Thu & Sat, until 2am Fri, closed Aug; Catalunya)