Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Kasbahs
Wherever there were once commercial interests worth protecting in Morocco - salt, sugar,
gold, slaves - you'll find a kasbah. These fortified quarters housed the ruling family, its
royal guard, and all the necessities for living in case of a siege. The
mellah
(Jewish quarter)
was often pos-itioned within reach of the kasbah guard and the ruling power's watchful
eye. One of the largest remaining kasbahs is Marrakesh's 11th-century kasbah, which still
houses a royal palace and acres of gardens, and flanks Marrakesh's
mellah
. Among the
most photogenic northern kasbahs are the red kasbah overlooking all-blue Chefchaouen,
and Rabat's whitewashed seaside kasbah with its elegantly carved gate, the Bab Oudaia.
In 2009, Dh230 million was set aside to restore
ksour
and kasbahs, with top priorities in Er-
Rachidia, Erfoud and Rissani.
Unesco World Heritage designations saved Taourirt kasbah in Ouarzazate and the rose-
coloured mudbrick Aït Benhaddou, both restored and frequently used as film backdrops. To
see living, still-inhabited kasbahs, head to Anmiter and Kasbah Amridil in Skoura Oasis.
ENDANGERED MONUMENTS: GLAOUI KASBAHS
The once spectacular Glaoui kasbahs at Taliouine, Tamdaght, Agdz and especially Telouet have been
largely abandoned to the elements - go and see them now, before they're gone. These are deeply ambi-
valent monuments: they represent the finest Moroccan artistry (no one dared displease the Glaoui des-
pots) but also the betrayal of the Alawites by the Pasha Glaoui, who collaborated with French colonists
to suppress his fellow Moroccans. But locals argue Glaoui kasbahs should be preserved, as visible re-
minders that even the grandest fortifications were no match for independent-minded Moroccans.
