Architecture - Morocco - page 933

Funduqs
Since medieval times, these creative courtyard complexes featured ground-floor artisans'
workshops and rented rooms upstairs - from the nonstop funduq flux of artisans and adven-
turers emerged cosmopolitan ideas and new inventions. Funduqs once dotted caravan
routes, but as trading communities became more stable and affluent, most funduqs were
gradually replaced with private homes and storehouses. Happily, 140 funduqs remain in
Marrakesh, including historic funduqs near Pl Bab Fteuh, several lining Rue Dar el-Bacha
and one on Rue el-Mouassine featured in the film Hideous Kinky . In Fez, an exemplary
funduq dating from 1711 underwent a six-year renovation to become the spiffy Nejjarine
Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. The state is investing Dh40 million to spruce up 98
more funduqs, so now's the time to see them in all their well-travelled, shop-worn glory.
HAMMAM ETIQUETTE
Visiting a hammam (traditional bathhouse) is infinitely preferable to cursing under a cold shower in a
cheap hotel. They're busy, social places, where you'll find gallons of hot water, and staff available to
scrub you clean. They're also good places to meet the locals and, especially for women, somewhere to
escape street hassle.
Every town has at least one hammam, often a modern, white-tiled and spacious affair. Often there are
separate hammams for men and women; others open to either sex at different hours or on alternate
days.
Some hammams are unmarked and others simply have a picture of a man or woman stencilled on the
wall outside; locals will happily direct you. Most hammams are welcoming, but a few (often those close
to a mosque) are unwilling to accept foreign visitors.
Bring your own towels (in a waterproof bag), a plastic mat or something to sit on, and flip-flops
(thongs). Some hammams sell toiletries; look out for ghassoul (clay mixed with herbs, dried roses and
lavender), el-kis (coarse glove), black soap made from the resin of olives (which stings if you get it in
your eyes) and henna (used by women).
You'll be given a bucket and scoop; remember to use the communal bucket when filling yours with
water. Most hammams have showers.
Hammam admission is typically around Dh10 (more in tourist areas), plus the optional extras of
gommage (scrub) and massage.
A few midrange and top-end hotels have more expensive hammams, which normally require advance
notice to heat up, and a minimum of four or five people.