Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
AROUND GOULIMIME
Tighmert oasis makes a scenic drive from Goulimime, with views of the distant Anti Atlas. You can
drive a circuit of this palmeraie (palm grove)in an hour or two on Rte d'Asrir, returning to town along
the Goulimime-Assa road.
There are a few basic guesthouses in the oasis, mostly located some 20km southeast of Goulimime
off Rte d'Asrir. Maison d'Hôtes Nomades ( 0667 90 96 42; www.darnomade.com ; off Rte
d'Asrir; d/tr from Dh200/250, breakfast/dinner/picnic Dh30/80/50) is a family-run guesthouse deep in
the oasis (there are some tight corners on the drive there), with rugs and farming implements decorat-
ing the pisé walls and simple rooms with shared or private bathroom. Accommodation is also avail-
able in a Berber tent (per person Dh60) and dinner features dishes such as dromedary tajine. Camel
rides and other activities are offered, but you may prefer to just lounge on the roof terrace taking in the
views.
For a grand taxi to Tighmert from Goulimime (Dh10), take a petit taxi (day/night Dh5/9) to the
grand-taxi station near the central market, 800m south of Pl Bir Anzarane at the start of the road to
Assa and Asrir.
Accessed from the N12 between Goulimime and Tata (or along back roads from the Anti Atlas), the
oasis village of Id-Âïssa , also known as Amtoudi after the gorge it occupies, has walking trails to two
agadirs, a waterfall and cave paintings. One of the agadirs is particularly impressive, towering above
the village on a spindly outcrop. Beneath the gorge's towering cliffs, French-owned guesthouse On
Dirait le Sud ( 0528 21 85 69; ondiraitlesud@yahoo.fr; s/d/tr with bathroom from Dh255/260/
315, without bathroom Dh155/160/215, dm per person Dh55, breakfast Dh35, dinner Dh80-100) has
four simple whitewashed rooms adorned with rugs. It is well set up for trekking, with information and
maps in the salon, and two- to 16-day guided treks offered in the Anti Atlas. In the second half of
September, a festival and fantasia takes place in the nearby village of Âït Herbil , also known for its
rock engravings.
Id-Âïssa is 30km from the N12, signposted from near the village of Taghjicht. To get there by grand
taxi from Goulimime, you will likely have to change in Bouizakarne and Souk Tnine-Nouadai. A
shared/private taxi from Bouizakarne costs about Dh35/210. From Tata, pick up a ride to Goulimime
or Bouizakarne and alight in Taghjicht, from where a private taxi costs Dh120.
On the other side of Goulimime, French resort Fort Bou-Jerif ( 0528 87 30 39;
www.fortboujerif.com ; campsite from Dh70, incl half-board s Dh490-600, d Dh800-1000, khaïma per
person incl half-board Dh320; ) offers a taste of the desert, 40km northwest of town via the Sidi
Ifni and Plage Blanche roads (it's well signposted). The last 9km is rough piste , passable in a normal
vehicle at glacial pace. Built near a ruined French Foreign Legion fort, the compound has a range of
sleeping options, from hotel and motel rooms to khaïmas (nomad tents) and camping. There is also a
bar-restaurant (set menu Dh180), where the speciality is dromedary tajine. Owner Pierre offers activit-
ies including 4WD trips to Plage Blanche, a little-visited and unspoiled stretch of beach 40km southw-
est of Bou-Jerif.
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