Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
AFELLA-IGHIR
Southeast of Tafraoute is the pretty oasis of Afella-Ighir. Leave Tafraoute on the Aguerd-Oudad road,
turning left a few kilometres south of the village, and travel roughly 25km over a mountain pass
through Tlata Tasrirte to the start of the dramatic Aït Mansour Gorges . You can see the Pierres
Bleues from the road up to the pass, which is often foggy and sometimes snowed over in winter.
You can drive through the gorges in a normal car if it hasn't rained, but walking or mountain biking
is the best way to appreciate this atmospheric area, where red cliff faces tower above the palms. In the
village of Aït Mansour at the beginning of the gorges and oasis, Auberge Aït Mansour ( 0676 73
51 98; www.auberge-ait-mansour-hanane-blogspot.com ; r/half-board per person Dh80/170) offers
mattresses on the floor and squat toilets. Owner Abdou can guide you to the old village nearby for
oasis views. A little further on, Chez Messaoud ( 0670 79 35 67, 0528 21 83 38; half-board per
person Dh150) is equally basic, although there are flush toilets. It serves tea and sells water and basic
provisions. Breakfast (Dh40) and meals (Dh60) are available if you book ahead.
Follow the road through a string of villages perched above the oasis, until you reach the T-junction
in Gdourt after about 8km. Turn right here for Tiznit or to loop back to Tafraoute. Turning left, the
next village is Souq el-Had Issi, a rather depressing settlement that accommodates workers from the
nearby gold mine. From Souq el-Had Issi, the road leads south to Aït Herbil. After about 12km, there
are some impressive rock carvings in Ukas , although you need a guide to find them.
A turn-off 1km beyond Souq el-Had Issi leads 5km northeast to the village of Tiwadou , where the
family-run Auberge Sahnoun ( 0667 09 53 76, 0528 21 83 65; maisonsahnoun@gmail.com; r per
person incl half-board Dh150) is on the edge of a palmeraie (palm grove). It has three basic but cosy
rooms, with mattresses on the floor and a good shared bathroom with hot water, and a roof terrace.
The auberge's late owner, Mohamed Sahnoun, was involved in village development projects.
In a 4WD, you can continue from Tiwadou through the Timguilcht Gorges to Tlata Tasrirte (about
20km). At the time of writing, it was not possible to drive this circuit in a 2WD vehicle, as the road
disintegrates after Tanrarte; the tarred road is being extended, so it should be possible in the future.
Daily minibuses run through the villages to Tafraoute (Dh25), leaving Tiwadou at about 5am and
returning around 11am.
Tafraoute Aventure ( Click here ) offers a 4WD day trip incorporating walks in Aït Mansour and
Timguilcht Gorges, Ukas and lunch in Tiwadou (Dh1200 for the vehicle, including driver and fuel).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ameln Valley & Jebel L'Kest
Tafraoute lies in a basin, largely surrounded by craggy brown cliffs and rocks. To the
northwest lies one such ridge, on the other side of which runs the Ameln Valley. North of
the valley is Jebel L'Kest (2359m). From Tafraoute you can make out a rock formation in
 
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