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achingly beautiful expanse of rolling dunes, which you can explore on a camel or sand-
board.
Brush off the Sahara and return to the High Atlas at Todra Gorge . Hike between the
enclosing rock walls, then jump in a market-bound truck through tiny villages and deeper
into the mountains. Imilchil , surrounded by red rock and turquoise lakes, is the site of a
wedding moussem (festival) in September.
Descend through the Middle Atlas and turn southwest, pausing to refuel in Berber food-
ie and cultural hub Demnate . The next stop is Marrakesh , with its famous riad hotels,
medina shopping and Djemaa el-Fna. Hit the Wild West coast at hippie-turned-boutique
hang-out Essaouira , then head south to vibrant Taghazout , Morocco's premier surf spot.
Then take the N10 to Taroudannt , the Souss Valley's prettiest market town with its mud-
walled medina and kasbah.
Travel barren mountains and empty roads to Tata , a Saharan gateway where blue-robed
guides can show you the desert. The road back to the Atlantic passes oases, palmeraies,
kasbahs, agadirs and rock carvings. Near the coast, detour north to the Tiznit jewellery
souq, particularly if it's a Thursday (market day).
Arcing west and south, you come to Mirleft , with its pink-and-blue arches, and Sidi
Ifni , a jumble of wind-whipped art-deco relics surrounded by coastal walks. End your
journey on the edge of the Western Sahara in sandy, gloriously isolated Tarfaya .
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