Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE ALMIGHTY MOULAY
Few men dominate the history of a country like the towering figure of Sultan Moulay Ismail
(1672-1727). Originating from the sand-blown plains of the Tafilalt region, his family were sherifs
(descendants of the Prophet Mohammed) - a pedigree that continues to underpin the current mon-
archy.
Ruthlessness as well as good breeding were essential characteristics for becoming sultan. On inher-
iting the throne from his brother Moulay ar-Rashid, Moulay Ismail set about diffusing the rival claims
of his 83 brothers and half-brothers, celebrating his first day in power by murdering all those who re-
fused to submit to his rule. His politics continued in this bloody vein with military campaigns in the
south, the Rif Mountains and Algerian hinterland, bringing most of Morocco under his control. He
even brought the Salé corsairs to heel, taxing their piracy handsomely to swell the imperial coffers.
The peace won, Moulay Ismail retired to his capital at Meknès and began building his grandiose
imperial palace, plundering the country for the best materials, and building city walls, kasbahs and
many new towns. This cultural flowering was Morocco's last great golden age.
Moulay Ismail also considered himself a lover. Although he sought (but failed to receive) the hand
in marriage of Louis XIV of France's daughter, he still fathered literally hundreds of children. Rather
foolishly, however, he did nothing to secure his succession. When he died the sultanate was rocked by
a series of internecine power struggles, from which the Alawites never fully recovered.
Nevertheless, his legacy was to be the foundation of modern Morocco. He liberated Tangier from
the British, subdued the Berber tribes and relieved the Spanish of much of their Moroccan territory.
Moulay Ismail sowed the seeds of the current monarchy and beneath his strong-arm rule the coherent
entity of modern Morocco was first glimpsed.
Sleeping
Most accommodation is located in the ville nouvelle, with the exception of a cluster of ul-
trabudget options and a number of new riads.
Medina
Most of Meknès' cheapies cluster along Rue Dar Smen and Rue Rouamzine in the old
city. In the high season and during festivals, they can fill up quickly. To be on the safe
side, get here early in the day or reserve a room.
Hôtel Maroc
HOTEL
€
( 0535 53 00 75; 7 Rue Rouamzine; per person Dh100, roof terrace Dh50)
A perennially popular
shoestring option, the Maroc has kept its standards up over the many years we've been
