Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The focus of Pl el-Hedim is the huge gate of Bab el-Mansour, the grandest of all imperial
Moroccan gateways. The gate is well preserved with lavish (if faded)
zellij
and inscrip-
tions across the top. It was completed by Moulay Ismail's son, Moulay Abdallah, in 1732.
You can't walk through the
bab
itself (although it's sometimes open to host exhibitions),
but instead have to make do with a side gate to the left.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
(donations welcome; 8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Sat-Thu)
Diagonally opposite the Koubbat as-Su-
fara' is the resting place of the sultan who made Meknès his capital in the 17th century.
Moulay Ismail's stature as one of Morocco's greatest rulers means that non-Muslim visit-
ors are welcomed into the sanctuary. Entry is through a series of austere, peaceful court-
yards meant to induce a quiet and humble attitude among visitors, an aim that's not al-
ways successful in the face of a busload of tourists. The tomb hall is a lavish contrast and
showcase of the best of Moroccan craftsmanship. Photography is permitted, but non-
Muslims may not approach the tomb itself.
MAUSOLEUM
Koubbat as-Sufara'
(admission Dh10; 9am-noon & 3-6pm)
South of Bab el-Mansour lies the
mechouar
(parade
ground), now known as Pl Lalla Aouda, where Moulay Ismail inspected his famed Black
Guard. After bringing 16,000 slaves from sub-Saharan Africa, Moulay Ismail guaranteed
the continued existence of his elite units by providing the soldiers with women and raising
their offspring for service in the guard. By the time of his death, the Black Guard had ex-
panded tenfold. Its successes were many, ranging from quelling internal rebellions, to
chasing European powers out of northern Morocco, to disposing of the Ottoman threat
from Algeria.
Following the road around to the right, you'll find an expanse of grass and a small
building, the Koubbat as-Sufara', once the reception hall for foreign ambassadors. Beside
the entrance, you will notice the shafts that descend into a vast crypt. This dark and
slightly spooky network of rooms was used for food storage, although tour guides will de-
light in recounting the (erroneous) story that it was used as a dungeon for the Christian
slaves who provided labour for Moulay Ismail's building spree. Bring a torch (flashlight).
MONUMENT
