Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
FASSI POTTERY
Ceramics seem to be everywhere in Fez - from the distinctive blue-glaze pottery to the intricate mosa-
ics decorating fountains and riads.
Art Naji
( 0535 66 91 66;
www.artnaji.net;
Ain Nokbi;
8am-6pm) is the place to go to buy the real deal. You can see the entire production process, from pot-
throwing to the painstaking hand painting and laying out of
zellij
(tilework) - it's a joy to behold. The
potteries are about 500m east of Bab el-Ftouh, an easy trip in a petit taxi - look for the plumes of
black smoke produced by olive pits, which burn at the right temperature for firing the clay. You can
even commission a mosaic and arrange for it to be shipped home.
Shopping
Fez is the artisanal capital of Morocco. The choice of crafts is wide, quality is high and
prices are competitive, so take your time to shop around. As usual, it's best to seek out the
little shops off the main tourist routes (principally Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira in the
medina).
For leather, the area around the tanneries, unsurprisingly, has the best selection of
goods.
In the medina, there are many well-restored riads and
funduqs
that have been converted
into carpet showrooms. While they certainly offer a great opportunity to sit with a mint tea
in spectacular surroundings and look at some fabulous rugs, the hard sell is like no other
place in Morocco. You can pick up some wonderful pieces, but also pay over the odds for
factory-made rubbish.
Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Although Fez is safe in comparison to Western cities of the same size, it's not really safe
to walk on your own in the medina late at night, especially for women. Knife-point rob-
beries are not unknown. Hotels and many restaurants are usually happy to provide an es-
cort on request if you're out late.
Fez has long been notorious for its
faux guides
(unofficial guides) and carpet-shop hust-
lers, all after their slice of the tourist dirham.
Faux guides
tend to congregate around Bab
Bou Jeloud, the main western entrance to the medina, although crackdowns by the author-
ities have greatly reduced their numbers and hassle.
