Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(3 Chrabliyenne, Talaa Kebira; women 8am-9pm, men 9pm-8am)
Another ancient -but newly re-
furbished - hammam, this large place is clean and the staff are used to tourists. The en-
trance fee is Dh12, but expect to pay around Dh100 for exfoliation and a massage.
Nausikaa
( 0535 61 00 06;
www.nausikaaspa.com
;
Ave Bahnini, Rte Ain Smen; hammam Dh100; 7am-9pm)
In the ville nouvelle, Nausikaa offers one of the most complete packages in Fez, blending
hammam traditions with a modern spa experience. A variety of sumptuous massages and
therapies are on offer, along with a gym and pool.
SPA
LIFE IN THE LEATHER DISTRICT
Tanneries provide perhaps the greatest illustration of how resolutely some parts of Morocco have
clung to practices developed in medieval times. Moroccan leather, and more particularly the Fassi
leather produced in Fez, has for centuries been highly prized as among the finest in the world. One
type of leather, a soft goatskin used mainly in bookbinding, is simply known as 'morocco'.
It's claimed that tanning leather in Morocco goes back several millennia, and little has changed
since medieval times. Donkeys still labour through the narrow streets carrying skins to dye pits, which
are still constructed to traditional designs (with the addition of modern ceramic tiles). Tanners are or-
ganised according to ancient guild principles, with workers typically born into the job. Unfortunately,
health and safety principles are similarly old-fashioned, and health problems among the workers, who
are knee-deep in chemicals all day, are not uncommon.
Rank odours abound at the tanneries, and the delicate tourists who come to view the work will often
be offered a sprig of mint to hold to their noses to take the edge off the pong (rain also dampens the
smell). Major components in processing the skins are pigeon poo and cow urine (for potassium) with
ash; more delicate ingredients such as indigo, saffron and poppy are added later for colour.
Modern Fassi tanneries - amazingly there are about 70 tanneries in Fez - tend to use synthetic
chemicals, washing pollutants into the Oued Sebou river, although the city's chrome removal plant is
removing much, if not all, of the worst pollutants.
Courses
Clock Kitchen
COOKING
( 0655 32 40 82;
www.cafeclock.com
;
Derb el-Magana, Talaa Kebira; half-day course Dh600)
Held in
Café Clock these classes are the place to perfect your skills in making tajine and
couscous. After planning your menu, you shop for ingredients in the souq, spend the
