Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Fès el-Jdid (New Fez)
Only in a city as old as Fez could you find a district dubbed 'New' because it's only 700
years old. The paranoid Merenid sultan Abu Yusuf Yacoub (1258-86) purpose-built the
quarter, packing it with his Syrian mercenary guards and seeking to isolate himself from
his subjects. Even today almost half of the area is given over to the grounds of the Royal
Palace, still popular with Mohammed VI. Its other main legacy is the architectural eviden-
ce of its early Jewish inhabitants.
Dar el-Makhzen
(Royal Palace; Pl des Alaouites)
The entrance to Dar el-Makhzen is a stunning example of
modern restoration, but the 80 hectares of palace grounds are not open to the public. Visit-
ors must suffice with viewing its imposing brass doors, surrounded by fine
zellij
and
carved cedar wood. Note the lemon trees to one side - tour guides are prone to plucking
the fruit to demonstrate the juice's astringent cleaning properties on the palace gates.
PALACE
Mellah
In the 14th century Fès el-Jdid became a refuge for Jews, thus creating a
mellah
(Jewish
quarter). The records suggest that the move was orchestrated to offer the Jews greater pro-
tection. And they certainly did enjoy the favour of the sultan, repaying him with their loy-
alty during conflict. Around 200 Jews remain in Fez, but all have now left the
mellah
in
favour of the ville nouvelle. Their old houses remain, with their open balconies looking
onto the streets a marked contrast to Muslim styles.
JEWISH QUARTER
Jewish Cemetery & Habarim Synagogue
CEMETERY
(donations welcome; 7am-7pm)
The southwest corner of the
mellah
is home to the sea of
blindingly white tombs that stretch down the hill; those in dedicated enclosures are tombs
of rabbis. One of the oldest, high up against the north wall, is that of Rabbi Vidal Hasser-
faty, who died in 1600. On the slope below, the large tomb with green trimming is that of
the martyr Solica. In 1834 this 14-year-old girl refused to convert to Islam or accept the
advances of the governor of Tangier and subsequently had her throat slit. The cemetery is
still in use.
