Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EAST MEDITERRANEAN COAST
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Melilla
POP 80,800
Who would expect to find hundreds of Modernist buildings, the second-largest such collec-
tion outside Barcelona, in North Africa? Yet here they are, along with one perfectly pre-
served medieval fortress, several fascinating museums and nearly 50 tapas bars. The result
is Melilla, a nirvana for architecture and history buffs, as well as a great place to spend the
weekend.
Along with Ceuta, Melilla is one of two autonomous Spanish cities on the Moroccan
coast, known as the
plazas mayores
. These cultural islands have much in common: their
economies are rooted in cross-border commerce, their societies are strongly multi-cultural
and there is a significant military presence, the result of strained relations. Melilla is nearly
equally divided between Christian and Muslim, with the latter being predominantly Berber.
A result of sub-Saharan immigrants trying to get in was the construction of a €33 million
fence that stretches from one side of the enclave to the other. The visit of the king and
queen of Spain in 2007, the first royal visit in 80 years, met with great local acclaim but
was strongly reviled by the Moroccans.
Melilla is very easy on the traveller, and tourist infrastructure is excellent. While ferry-
loads of visitors pour in during summer, in the low season you'll have plenty of breathing
room.
Melilla oozes with history, but it is neither as broad nor as deep as you might expect.
While the area has been inhabited for more than 2000 years, the old city wasn't begun until
after Spanish conquest in 1496, then built up in four stages. Up until the end of the 19th
century, virtually all of Melilla was contained within a single impregnable fortress. Current
borders were fixed by several treaties with Morocco between 1859 and 1894, the last fol-
lowing an unsuccessful siege by rebellious Rif Berbers. The method involved shooting a
cannonball and seeing how far it went. More fighting with rebel Berbers broke out several
times in the ensuing years, until the Spanish protectorate consolidated its grip in 1927. In
1936, Franco flew here from the Canary Islands to launch the Spanish Civil War. Local
politics still tips to the right.
