Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE RIF MOUNTAINS
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Tetouan
POP 330,000
Tetouan is a jewel of a town in a striking location at the foot of the Rif Mountains, and just
a few kilometres from the sea. It's unlike Tangier or the imperial cities in that it is little vis-
ited by foreign tourists. There is an air of authenticity here that adds great value to a visit.
The ancient medina, a Unesco World Heritage site, looks like it has not changed in several
centuries. There have been some recent upgrades - a modern bus station, restorations to the
medina wall, some public gardens - but nothing like the towns along the coast. The city is
poised on the edge of discovery and to the savvy traveller, this spells opportunity.
From 1912 until 1956 Tetouan was the capital of the Spanish protectorate, which encom-
passed much of northern Morocco. This, and the town's long relationship with Andalucia,
have left it with a Hispano-Moorish character that is unique in Morocco, as physically re-
flected in the Spanish part of the city, known as the Ensanche (extension), whose white
buildings and broad boulevards have been restored to their original condition.
The Ensanche is centred on Pl Moulay el-Mehdi and the pedestrian stretch of Ave Mo-
hammed V, which runs east to Pl al-Jala. Here you'll find hotels, banks and places to eat.
The entrance to the medina is off the grand Pl Hassan II, which faces the Royal Palace. The
rest of the sprawling town has little to offer the visitor.
History
From the 8th century onwards, the city served as the main point of contact between Mo-
rocco and Andalucia. In the 14th century the Merenids established the town as a base from
which to control rebellious Rif tribes, and to attack Ceuta, but it was destroyed by Henry III
of Castille in 1399. After the Reconquista (the reconquest of Spain, completed in 1492), the
town was rebuilt by Andalucian refugees. It prospered in part due to their skills, and to
thriving pirate activity.
Moulay Ismail built Tetouan's defensive walls in the 17th century, and the town's trade
links with Spain developed. In 1860, the Spanish took the town under Leopoldo O'Donnell,
