Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
aromatic fish paste) and its merchants also grew rich from the export of wild animals for
use in the empire's amphitheatres.
The colony at Lixus rapidly declined as the Romans withdrew from North Africa, and
was abandoned completely in the 5th century, after the collapse of the Roman Empire.
Later, the site became known to Muslims as Tuchummus.
Sights
Ruins
The main gate to Lixus is in the green railings that border the Larache-Tangier road. In-
side the railings to the left are the remains of the
garum
factories, where fish was salted
and the prized paste produced, beloved in Rome (in a neat parallel, nearby Assilah still
has an anchovy paste factory today). A gravel path leads up the hill from the gate past a
number of minor ruins to the
public baths
and
amphitheatre
. The amphitheatre provides im-
pressive views of the surrounding countryside and makes a wonderful place just to sit and
relax.
Most mosaics from the site were removed and are now on display at the archaeology
museum in Tetouan. The Grand Temple mosaics depicting Helios, Mars and Rhea, the
three Graces, and Venus with Adonis are all there. The only remaining mosaic at Lixus is
that of
Oceanus
(the Greek Sea God). Unfortunately, it's been exposed both to the elements
and to local vandalism, so is in rough shape.
Continue up the path to the main assembly of buildings, which straddle the crest of the
hill. From here there are incredible views down over the Loukos Estuary and salt fields
below.
The civic buildings, additional public baths and original city ramparts are here, while to
the south is the striking citadel, a flurry of closely packed ruins standing stark against the
sky. Although most of the antiquities are in an advanced state of decay, you should be able
to make out the main temple and associated sanctuaries, an oratory, more public baths and
the remains of the city walls.
HISTORIC SITE
Getting There & Away
Lixus is approximately 4.5km north of Larache on the road to Tangier. To get there take
bus 9 from outside the Casbah de la Cigogne (Dh5). A petit taxi costs about Dh25 one
way; it's also on the Larache-Assilah grand taxi route.
