Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ask for the fish. Villanora is at the far northern end of town, about 2km from the main
street. Booking ahead is recommended.
La Maison des Oiseaux
( 061 30 10 67, 0537 43 25 43;
http://moulay.bousselham.free.fr
;
half board per person Dh350)
Anoth-
er friendly guesthouse set in a lovely garden with nine simple but beautifully styled tradi-
tional rooms. There's a seminar room upstairs for visiting school groups and birdwatching
excursions can be arranged for Dh200 to Dh300 for 2½ hours. The guesthouse is hidden
down a maze of sandy lanes to the left as you drive into town. Ask around or call for dir-
ections.
B&B
€€
Restaurant l'Ocean
( 0678 31 09 54, 0669 43 42 45; mains Dh50; lunch & dinner)
The road down to the seafront
is lined with cafes and restaurants serving platters of grilled fish and tajines. One of the
best is this small place, with a terrace, serving excellent fish, couscous, tajines and paella.
SEAFOOD, MOROCCAN
€
Getting There & Away
Moulay Bousselham is about 40km due south of Larache. To get here by public transport
you'll need to detour to the little town of Souk el-Arba du Rhurb (grand taxi from Larache
Dh35, 45 minutes), from where there are frequent grands taxis (Dh20, 45 minutes) and a
few buses (Dh12, 45 minutes) to Moulay Bousselham. You can get to Souk el-Arba du
Rhurb by grand taxi from Kenitra or Rabat (Dh40, 1½ hours). A private grand taxi from
Larache to Moulay Bousselham costs around Dh200.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Larache
Larache, like the other towns on this stretch of coast, is sleepy and laid-back for most of
the year, bursting into life in summer when Moroccan tourists come to the beach. The
charming town otherwise sees few visitors. The new town has some grand Spanish-era ar-
chitecture, particularly around the central Pl de la Libération (the former Plaza de
España), while the tiny crumbling medina is worth a stroll. North of the river Loukos on
the edge of town sit the overgrown ruins of ancient Lixus, the legendary site of the Garden
of the Hesperides.
