Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Moulay Bousselham
The idyllic fishing village of Moulay Bousselham is a tranquil place, protected by the
shrines of two local saints. The village is slowly expanding, as retired Europeans are start-
ing to buy homes here. There is a sweeping beach (empty for most of the year), friendly
people, good fish restaurants and an impressive, internationally important wildfowl re-
serve. Except for the summer months, this is a great place to spend a few days, with little
more to do than birdwatching, fishing or strolling along the beach. Surfers come here for
the crashing waves, but the strong currents are dangerous for swimmers. In summer the
pace changes dramatically as the village becomes a low-key resort for Moroccans, and the
inhabitants swell from around 1000 to 65,000 people.
Moulay Bousselham is named after a 10th-century Egyptian saint who is commemor-
ated in one of the
koubbas
(shrines) that line the slope down to the sea, and guards the
mouth of the river. Moroccans seeking a cure for psychological problems are locked into
the tomb for 24 hours. Across the river is another shrine of Sidi Abd el-Galil, believed to
cure sterile women. You'll find everything you need along the one main street, including a
bank, post office, pharmacy and a couple of internet cafes, but there's no alcohol in town.
Sights
Merja Zerga National Park
One of the great pleasures of Morocco's Atlantic coast is to take a boat out on Merja
Zerga (the Blue Lagoon), preferably with a bird guide who can bring the place to life. The
73-sq-km Merja Zerga National Park (4 sq km of water and the rest marshland) is protec-
ted by the Ramsar Convention and attracts thousands of migrant birds, including wild-
fowl, waders and flamingos in huge numbers, making it one of Morocco's prime bird-
watching habitats. The lagoon is between 50cm and 4m deep depending on the tide.
Ninety percent of the water comes from the sea, 10% is sweetwater from the Oued Dredr,
south of the lagoon. At the time of research, the new tourist office was not yet open.
Although the largest flocks are present in December and January, you'll find herons,
flamingos, ibises, spoonbills, plovers and egrets here as late as March or April, and there
are about 100 species all year round. The calm lagoon is also a good place to see slender-
billed and Audouin's gulls, and the African marsh owl. Shelducks, teals and numerous
terns are frequently seen, as are marsh harriers and peregrine falcons.
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