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brightly painted guesthouse is a gem. The rooms around a spectacular courtyard are taste-
fully decorated with a blend of Moroccan style and Western comfort. Subtle lighting, open
fireplaces, balconies and the gentle gurgling of the fountain in the tiled courtyard below
complete the romantic appeal. Meals here are sublime but need to be ordered in advance.
Dar El Kebira
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RIAD €€€
( 0537 72 49 06; www.darelkebira.com ; Rue Ferrane Znaki, Impasse Belghazi; r Dh1350-1600, ste
Dh1850; ) A plush and expansive riad, Dar El Kebira has a selection of large and well-
appointed rooms with plenty of traditionally decorated ones that stay just the right side of
Moroccan-riad-bling. There's a restaurant (book in advance), a terrace looking over the
medina for breakast or sunset drinks, and an in-house hammam to soothe your travel cares
away.
Eating
Rabat has a wonderful choice of restaurants from cheap and cheerful holes-in-the-wall to
upmarket gourmet pads feeding the city's legions of politicians and diplomats.
The best place for quick, cheap food in Rabat is on Ave Mohammed V just inside the
medina gate. Here you'll find a slew of small joints dishing out tajines, brochettes, salads
and chips for cheap and cheaper. You'll know the best ones by the queue of locals waiting
patiently to be served.
Another good spot is around Rue Tanta in the ville nouvelle, where you'll find fast-food
joints serving everything from burgers and brochettes to pizza and panini.
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