Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CAMEL QUERIES
With over 70 camps in the Erg Chebbi dunes, picking your place is key. Before you agree to a
dromedary trek, ask the guide the following questions.
How big is your camp, and how many people are headed there tonight? Overnight treks often
congregate in the same spot, so if you have a romantic notion of being alone in the dunes under the
stars, find an outfit with a separate camp.
How far is it to the campsite? Not everyone is cut out for dromedary-riding - it makes some seasick
and others chafe. For long treks, bring motion-sickness pills and cornstarch or talcum powder.
Does the trek guide speak English, or another language I know? This is important in the unlikely
case of emergency in the desert, and to avoid awkward hand-gesture explanations when you need to
use the bathroom.
Are the camels well rested? Don't take it personally. Cranky, overtired camels are notorious for sud-
den shifts, dead stops and throat-rattling spitting.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Merzouga
When a wealthy family refused hospitality to a poor woman and her son, God was offen-
ded, and buried them under the mounds of sand called Erg Chebbi . So goes the legend of
the dunes rising majestically above the twin villages of Merzouga and Hassi Labied , which
for many travellers fulfil Morocco's promise as a dream desert destination.
But Erg Chebbi's beauty coupled with Merzouga's accessibility has its price. Paved
roads across the Middle Atlas from Midelt and east from Ouarzazate mean that desert
tourism is booming. In high season, coaches and convoys of 4WDs churn up huge dust
clouds as they race across the hammada in time for sunset camel rides, and purists lament
the encroachment of hotels flanking the western fringes of the dunes - although there's no
denying the spectacular dune views from rooms and terraces.
To best experience Erg Chebbi's ethereal beauty, plan carefully and come out of season.
The end of November, and January and February are the quietest times and some of the
best weatherwise.
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