Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ZIZ VALLEY & THE TAFILALT
Snaking down through the dramatic Ziz Gorges from Rich, the Oued Ziz brings to life the
last southern valley of the Ziz and the Tafilalt oases before puttering out in the rose gold
dunes of Merzouga. Starting just south of the Middle Atlas town of Rich and about 30km
north of Er-Rachidia, the tremendous Ziz Gorges provide a rocky passage south through
the Tunnel du Légionnaire (built by the French in 1928). To the south, the valley widens
presenting a spectacular sight: a dense canopy of palms wedged between ancient striated
cliffs, which date back to the Jurassic period. It's worth taking some time here to explore
the rich, untouristed
palmeraie
.
South of Erfoud the tough Tafilalt - once the main caravan terminus for the lucrative Salt
Road and the original homeland of Morocco's ruling Alawite dynasty - was one of the last
areas to succumb to French control under the protectorate, with tribes putting up sporadic
resistance until 1932. Two years later Morocco was officially considered 'pacified', but just
to be on the safe side, Erfoud was built as a garrison town. Today the provincial capital is
located in Er-Rachidia, a convenient pitstop for those travelling north along the N13 to
Midelt and Meknès.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Er-Rachidia
POP 76,800
Established as a military garrison for the French Foreign Legion, Er-Rachidia is still home
to a sizeable military population stationed here to keep an eye on the nearby border with
Algeria. Much like Ouarzazate, it is an expanding modern town staking out ever larger res-
idential suburbs thanks to a significant injection of development funds.
Garrison towns aren't generally known for their hospitality or culture, but Er- Rachidia
is trying to change that. Every May, its enormous theatre hosts performers from throughout
Tuesday and Thursday.
Sleeping
