Marrakesh & Central Morocco - Morocco - page 285

GORGE YOURSELF: DADÈS TO TODRA

The 42km piste drive from Dadès Gorge to Tamtattouchte in the Todra Gorge is a tough five-hour
journey through twisting hills and the boulder-strewn valley of Tizgui n'Ouadda. The crossing is
prone to flash floods, so seek up-to-date advice on the state of the piste before setting off. The route
starts with a bone-rattling ascent at Tilmi, 15km north of Msemrir and then crests the 2639m-high Tizi
n'Uguent Zegsaoun before descending through a long valley to emerge just north of Tamtattouchte.
The trip should only be attempted by 4WD during the summer months (May to September), and a
local guide is recommended. In May, many nomadic Berbers with homes in Aït Haini head to this val-
ley to pitch tents and graze large herds of sheep. If you stop, you may be invited into tents to sip tea
and swap stories.

Sleeping
Most accommodation listed here is within 28km of Boumalne du Dadès, and the kilo-
metre markings refer to the distance from Boumalne. Most will let you sleep in the salon
or on the terrace (even in summer you may need a sleeping bag) for around Dh30, or
camp by the river for Dh15 to Dh30.
In Msemrir the best place to sleep is the run-down but friendly Hotel Agdal (

0671 53

) , which offers simple en-suite rooms opposite the market. 20 52; Msemrir; s/d Dh40/80;

Chez L'Habitant Amazigh
( 0670 71 45 51; [e-mail]; Km 20, Aït Arbi; incl breakfast s Dh180, d Dh200-300; )
Spend a night at the Tair family home and you may find yourself invited to a local wed-
ding, dressing up in Berber finery or taking impromptu walks through valley orchards
learning the names of local herbs and flowers. Pink pisé rooms and exuberantly decorated
salons can't compete with first-class terrace views over the river and valley rock forma-
tions.

MAISON D'HÔTE €

Auberge des Gorges du Dadès
( 0524 83 02 21; www.aubergeaitoudinar.com ; Km 24, Aït Oudinar; camping per person/tent/car Dh20/
30/10, s/d per person incl half board Dh250/200; ) Bubbly with personality and overlooking
the river, the Auberge has 30 rooms that cover the waterfront with Moroccan motifs: pisé
Amazigh designs and fossil sinks in one wing, ornate stucco and beldi tile in another.
Some have balconies and all have basic en-suite bathrooms and tiled floors. Bring socks
or slippers.

INN €