Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Garsten, the 13 sumptuous caidal tents (25 sq metres each) are furnished with wall-to-wall
carpets, handcrafted beds, snug duvets, percale cotton sheets and solar-powered lighting.
Camel-rides, guided walks, chill-out zones furnished with hammocks, board games and
magical evenings filled with Gnaoua ballads played with goatskin drums - the experience
here is second to none.
For those seeking more privacy, the camp also operates two private camps (each with
only two tents) and offers the option of wild camping on treks of three days or more.
Jnan Lilou
( 0671 51 74 77;
www.jnanlilou.com
;
Ksar Bounou; s/d incl half board Dh935/1430; )
When siroccos blow through town, retreat to air-conditioned candy-coloured rooms fea-
turing en-suite
tadelakt
bathrooms with shiny brass sinks. Lunch and evening menus mix
French and Moroccan cuisine, with fireside dining in winter and lunches under the
poolside pergola in summer. The three-night, full-board packages including camel rides
and an overnight excursion to Erg Chigaga are good value (Dh2360 to Dh3100).
MAISON D'HÔTE
€€€
Getting There & Away
A daily CTM bus leaves M'Hamid for Zagora (Dh30, 1½ hours), Ouarzazate (Dh75, five
hours) and Marrakesh (Dh130, 10 hours). Local buses and taxis leave for Zagora (Dh25)
throughout the day. Buses and taxis all depart from the main square in M'Hamid.
TOP OF CHAPTER
West of Erg Chigaga
Exiting Erg Chigaga by 4WD, head north to Ouarzazate or Marrakesh via Foum Zguid.
En route through the
sahel
and
reg,
you'll pass the
Iriki 'oasis'
under an imposing plateau
on your right. From here, you'll spot thirsty birds and gazelles drinking from a vast lake.
But look again: 'Lake Iriki' is actually a salt pan shimmering in the heat haze, with de-
ceptive silhouettes of poisonous calotropis bushes.
Travel another 30km or so and you'll hit the N12 tarmac road. From here the road
heads south to Tata and north to
Foum Zguid
. Foum Zguid is a strategic military base, so
you may be asked to show your passport here. Downtown is a crossroads with all the ne-
cessities: water, petrol, a public phone, restaurants and coffee. As you head north out of
town, past the guardhouse, a road east leads to the town's two hotels. The road north is
