Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Aït Benhaddou
Like certain Botoxed stars, this Unesco-
protected kasbah seems suspiciously frozen in time: with Hollywood touch-ups, it still re-
sembles its days in the 11th century as an Almoravid caravanserai. Movie buffs may re-
cognise this red mudbrick kasbah 32km from Ouarzazate from
Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus
of Nazareth
(for which much of Aït Benhaddou was rebuilt),
Jewel of the Nile
(note the
Egyptian towers) and
Gladiator
.
If you're headed to the desert, Aït Benhaddou is a worthy detour for a tasty lunch and
kasbah stroll. From the Hôtel la Kasbah, head down past the souvenir stalls to the kasbah
across the parched Oued Ounilla riverbed. But where are all the people? The few remain-
ing residents make a few dirham providing access through their family homes to the
kas-
bah
(customary tip Dh10)
. Climb the kasbah to a ruined
agadir
(fortified granary) with magni-
ficent views of the surrounding
palmeraie
and unforgiving
hammada
.
A less retouched kasbah can be found 6km north along the tarmac from Aït Benhaddou:
the
Tamdaght kasbah
(tip to caretaker Dh10)
, a crumbling Glaoui fortification topped by
storks' nests.
Sleeping
Auberge Ayouze
( 0524 88 37 57;
www.auberge-ayouze.com
; GPS coordinates N 31°04,066 W 007°08,526; s/d/q
Dh180/260/370; )
Located in the village of Asfalou, 3km north of Aït Benhaddou,
Zoé and Abderrahmane's B&B is a haven from the tourist throngs. The simple, rustic
style and practical, good-value rooms make this a great place for families and single trav-
ellers. Plan to stay a while so you can enjoy mountain hikes, river walks and treks to Aït
Benhaddou and Tamdaght. Advance reservations are recommended.
B&B
€
Auberge Baghdad Cafe
( 0524 88 25 06;
www.auberge-baghdad-cafe.com
;
d incl breakfast/half board Dh430/610;
)
The friendly Baghdad Cafe is well known for its good food - a few, simple homecooked
dishes done to a high standard - but it also has jaunty rooms decked out with rattan-
framed beds, rag rugs and bright, modernist bed linens. It's probably the best-value ac-
commodation in town. You'll find it on your left on the main drag past Riad Makhtoub.
GUESTHOUSE
€€
