Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BERBER BOTANY IN THE HIGH ATLAS
Despite icy winters and scalding summers, the High Atlas Mountains are extremely fertile. Overgraz-
ing, agriculture and wood collection for fuel has impacted the High Atlas; much of its indigenous ve-
getation has disappeared. But through painstaking reforestation and resourceful mountainside terrace
farming using
targa
(channel) irrigation, the hills are alive with a diversity of flora.
Here's what you'll spot on High Atlas walks:
Valleys
Riots of flowers erupt in spring, when valley almond, cherry and apricot orchards bloom. In
summer, you'll enjoy the shade of carob, quince, pomegranate, apple and fig trees. Resourceful farm-
ers manage to eke multiple crops from terrace plots: barley October through to May, and potatoes, car-
rots, turnips, onions, lentils and beans from spring through to autumn. Walnuts are a major crop in
higher villages, with harvest in late September.
Subalpine zone
(2400m to 3200m) Thickets of gnarled Spanish juniper
(Juniperus thurifer)
are blas-
ted into extraordinary shapes by the wind, and exposed roots cling like fingers to the rock. Aleppo
pine is being planted to prevent erosion, and replace fragrant Atlas cedar used for woodworking.
High elevations
The easiest to spot are 'hedgehog plants', spiny, domed bushes that briefly burst into
flower in spring. Even when you don't spot plants on the trail, you'll get a whiff of lavender, rosemary
and wild thyme underfoot, perfuming your boots as you walk.
SETTI FATMA
A little village that's seen a whole lot of tourist action in the past decade, Setti Fatma is a
scenic stop for lunch by the river and for hikes to
seven waterfalls
. The village is neatly
nestled in a canyon beneath the High Atlas mountains at the southern end of the Ourika
Valley road, 24km south of the Oukaïmeden turn-off at Aghbalou. Waterfall hikes range
from an easy 20-minute stroll to arduous stream hikes; ignore the faux guides and follow
the paths, or find a licenced guide to lead the way on foot or mule at the
bureau des
guides
.
Prime times to visit are in early March when the cherry and almond trees are in bloom,
or in August for the
four-day moussem
,
with its fair and market at the
koubba
of Setti
Fatma. During the summer the place is clogged with visitors from Marrakesh; our advice
is to head instead to the splendidly untrammelled neighbouring valleys of Zat and Ouir-
gane.
Activities
Served by frequent buses and grands taxis, Setti Fatma is the most accessible High Atlas
trekking base, although trailheads for many of the more impressive hikes lie on the other
