Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pass, a path leads left (east) to a ridge that climbs to over 3500m. The well-worn Rougoult
pass is straight ahead, and the summit of Irhil M'Goun (4068m) - only 100m lower than
Jebel Toubkal - due east. In the near distance across the Tessaout River , exposed mountain
slopes reveal great gashes of rust, green and grey rock.
From the Rougoult pass, the mule path is clearly marked, winding gradually downhill
for two hours before reaching the village of Tasgaïwalt (2521m). Curious village children
may keep you company on the easy 40-minute walk along the track, keeping the river to
your left, to the village of Amezri (2250m). The Gîte d'Étape Agnid Mohamed (per person
Dh100) has large sleeping rooms, some overlooking the valley, with a rudimentary shower
and toilets, and convenient camping (Dh20).
DAY 3: AMEZRI TO AÏT ALI N'ITO
DURATION SIX HOURS / DISTANCE 18KM / DESCENT 427M / ASCENT 150M
Your path follows the Tessaout River, shelving gently from 2250m to 1833m. The valley
is flanked by impressive cliffs, particularly the sheer Ichbbakene escarpment, which rises
600m above the river.
The river has few fish, but it does irrigate exceptionally lovely terraces cultivated by
Aafan Berbers. In spring, the area is covered with wildflowers and blooming fruit and nut
trees. Here the Tessaout flows west, fed by streams of melted mountain snow.
Where the path crosses the river, you can often hop across on stones. In spring, you
may have to wade, as at the village of Imi-n-Ikkis , 5km from Amezri. The village has a
shop (no sign) that sometimes stocks water, soft drinks, tinned food and plastic shoes to
ford rivers.
Downstream 1½ hours, the path passes beneath the larger village of Ichbbakene , backed
by a sheer escarpment. The path becomes a piste, and keeping the river on your left for
another 2½ hours, the piste squeezes between the stone and mud houses of Aït Hamza .
Another hour leads to the village of Aït Ali n'Ito , where you'll find great views at the Gîte
d'Étape Assounfou ( 0668 96 82 63; half board per person Dh200) plus electricity, hot showers
(Dh10) and even a hammam.
DAY 4: AÏT ALI N'ITO TO AÏT ALLA
DURATION 2½ TO THREE HOURS / DISTANCE 8KM / DESCENT 150M
A dirt road leads alongside the river with gentle climbs to the lovely village of Fakhour ,
where the houses scale the hillside. Fakhour is noted for its agadir (fortified granary),
which can be visited (a Dh10 tip for the guardian is customary).
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